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Crack Test Dummies
Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 1.9 from 103
FA: Dane Bass & Curtis Mai 2002
> N America
> Nuevo Leon
> El Potrero Chico
> Las Agujas (The Spires)
The entire climb pretty much follows the large crack system.
P1: 5.7 Climb up the crack, easy at first, but the bolts are spaced further apart. There are some 5.7 moves shortly before the belay. 100 feet.
P2: 5.9 Continue up crack using stemming, face climbing and some hand jams along the way. The book said this was 5.8, but it felt plenty harder than that. This is a long pitch with some wayward bolts, so use slings when necessary. 138 feet to a 5 bolt anchor and a nice belay stance.
P3: 5.7 airy. 12 feet. 1 good bolt, then 3 rusty rings, then a chain anchor on either side of the top. To finish the climb, gently walk a few feet over the loose blocks to the summit and stand tall.
Descent: Lower one person down 12 feet to the good anchors. Then only one person has to rap off a single chain. From top of pitch 2 do a long rap to anchors on Gettin' Wood (down and upslope a little) Then another long rap to the ground. We did the raps with a 70m rope, but had extra each time.
On the shady side of the downhill spire at large crack/chimney looking feature.