Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 126 total · 8/month
Shared By: Sean Hible on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route

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Disclaimer: Don't do this route. Not only does it suck, but if you make an error you're gonna die.

This route climbs the ridge of the downhill spire (closer to the road). Begin climbing low on the ridge wherever you feel like. We started near the base of the trail leading up the south side of the spires (side of Pangea).

Pitch 1 (5.5): Try as best you can to not get stabbed by the forest of cactus covering the beginning of the ridge. Oh, also the 5.5 difficulty on this pitch only applies if you risk using hollow-sounding or loose blocks. Otherwise prepare for 5.9-5.10 face climbing in parts with near zero protection for the 200' pitch. Last 30' have a couple old pins and cleaner more solid rock. Finish pitch on slanting ledge. Anchor consists of two yellow and one red C3 if you want to avoid slinging the large, detached block. Find the hidden pin for extra points.

Pitch 2 (5.8): Previous book descriptions have led you to traverse into a wide crack on the North Face of the Spire and continue up to two old pins. New anchor bolts and chains now exist on Sunnyside Up. We didn't know exactly what to do here and didn't have the balls to try the traverse.

Pitch 2- Fear and Trembling Variation (5.9): Go straight up using face holds and whatever doesn't sound like it'll rip underneath your weight to ledge before headwall and giant block on the right. Continue up crack of Sunnyside Up ignoring the bolts and plugging gear instead.
FA: Sean Hible & John Cunningham


South side of downhill spire ridge to the top of the downhill spire.


Single rack trad gear with extras of whatever you want. There's not much pro anyways.
2 yellow and 1 red C3 for Pitch 1 anchor.


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