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> N America
> Mexico
> Nuevo Leon
> El Potrero Chico
> Las Agujas (The Spires)
Downhill Route
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British X
Avg: 0 from 2
votes
Routes in Las Agujas (The Spires)
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Aguja Celo Rey S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Aspire S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bonesaw Arete S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crack Test Dummies S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dirty Dreams S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Downhill Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Easy Over S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fall of Eve S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Gettin' Wood S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gondwanaland S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Handsome Mike's Modeling School S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jungle Honey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Off the Notch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pangea S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Peek-a-boo Jesus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sunnyside Up S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Through the Looking Glass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Uber Machismo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Up Hill Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Viento de Primavera S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Young Crankenstein S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 953 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Sean Hible on Nov 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Description
Disclaimer: Don't do this route. Not only does it suck, but if you make an error you're gonna die.
This route climbs the ridge of the downhill spire (closer to the road). Begin climbing low on the ridge wherever you feel like. We started near the base of the trail leading up the south side of the spires (side of Pangea).
Pitch 1 (5.5): Try as best you can to not get stabbed by the forest of cactus covering the beginning of the ridge. Oh, also the 5.5 difficulty on this pitch only applies if you risk using hollow-sounding or loose blocks. Otherwise prepare for 5.9-5.10 face climbing in parts with near zero protection for the 200' pitch. Last 30' have a couple old pins and cleaner more solid rock. Finish pitch on slanting ledge. Anchor consists of two yellow and one red C3 if you want to avoid slinging the large, detached block. Find the hidden pin for extra points.
Pitch 2 (5.8): Previous book descriptions have led you to traverse into a wide crack on the North Face of the Spire and continue up to two old pins. New anchor bolts and chains now exist on Sunnyside Up. We didn't know exactly what to do here and didn't have the balls to try the traverse.
Pitch 2- Fear and Trembling Variation (5.9): Go straight up using face holds and whatever doesn't sound like it'll rip underneath your weight to ledge before headwall and giant block on the right. Continue up crack of Sunnyside Up ignoring the bolts and plugging gear instead.
FA: Sean Hible & John Cunningham
This route climbs the ridge of the downhill spire (closer to the road). Begin climbing low on the ridge wherever you feel like. We started near the base of the trail leading up the south side of the spires (side of Pangea).
Pitch 1 (5.5): Try as best you can to not get stabbed by the forest of cactus covering the beginning of the ridge. Oh, also the 5.5 difficulty on this pitch only applies if you risk using hollow-sounding or loose blocks. Otherwise prepare for 5.9-5.10 face climbing in parts with near zero protection for the 200' pitch. Last 30' have a couple old pins and cleaner more solid rock. Finish pitch on slanting ledge. Anchor consists of two yellow and one red C3 if you want to avoid slinging the large, detached block. Find the hidden pin for extra points.
Pitch 2 (5.8): Previous book descriptions have led you to traverse into a wide crack on the North Face of the Spire and continue up to two old pins. New anchor bolts and chains now exist on Sunnyside Up. We didn't know exactly what to do here and didn't have the balls to try the traverse.
Pitch 2- Fear and Trembling Variation (5.9): Go straight up using face holds and whatever doesn't sound like it'll rip underneath your weight to ledge before headwall and giant block on the right. Continue up crack of Sunnyside Up ignoring the bolts and plugging gear instead.
FA: Sean Hible & John Cunningham
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