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Routes in Leda

Ancient of Days S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Anubis S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Battered Women S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bethany S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blood Covenant S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bone-Yard PickN S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brass Monkey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chip Away S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cracked Actor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cumberland Blues T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eagle Wings S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fanfair S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Free to Think T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Future lies here, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Girls Only S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good and Plenty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gotten Goat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Grail Saga, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
GumbEE S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
House of Giza S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Immortal Altar S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jody's Route (aka The Chris' Route) S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knock on Rock S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lock Down S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lolita's Deluge S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Margin Walker S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
My Little Patina S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Oh So Sweet T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Old Foot S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
One Percent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
One and Lonely, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Optimus Prime T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ox Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playground Medley S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Psychotic Reaction S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Relapse T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smoke S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Speedway Boogie S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
TJ's Demise S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Temple of Doom S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
University Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Varmint S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Vogen Slab S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk By Me T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,737 total · 21/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Dec 16, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Description

The climbing on Ox Crack might seem hard right off the ground but after a few awkward moves bomber hand jams appear. Follow the crack up and then left to a ramp. Next head right and out under a roof before stepping up to the anchors.

Location

Upper Leda...hard to miss the nice looking hand crack in a corner that weaves up through roofs.

Protection

Trad gear. Tree with slings at the top.

Photos

Roodbass
Chattanooga, TN
  5.8
Roodbass   Chattanooga, TN
  5.8
To reduce rope drag, bring a pair of 4 foot slings for anchors. Also, this route is known by locals as Ox Stone Crack. Mar 25, 2009
Swamp Cookie
da Bayou
  5.8
Swamp Cookie   da Bayou
  5.8
Bolted anchors at the top now. Mar 28, 2010
cshuey77 shuey
Asheviile,nc
 
cshuey77 shuey   Asheviile,nc
 
best 5.8 at leda. perfect handjams on the bottom half. May 27, 2010
highneed
  5.8
highneed  
  5.8
Beautiful line that is hard to walk by. Often wet after a rain. Great route for new 5.8 leader if you can get past the first 12 feet. Aug 19, 2012
Dylan H  
What is the bolted line to the right of Ox Crack that shares the same anxhor? Jan 4, 2017
Douglas Kempthorne
Cincinnati, OH
  5.8
Douglas Kempthorne   Cincinnati, OH
  5.8
There are two old shunts above the first roof for a sport climb, the Ox Crack anchors are right of the second roof about 15' above the shunts and harder to spot from the ground. The anchor was a pair of vertically arranged hangers with rings, and an older sling between the two as a sort of backup. Aug 7, 2017

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