Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,860 total · 26/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 26, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


103 Opinions

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Description

This may be the nicest moderate sport route at Leda. From a crack climbing start to balancy face moves, it's a fun challenge all the way.

Starting at an obvious crack just left of a small arete, use hand jams or layback to work your way up to a welcome huge jug just under the very high first bolt. Stick clipping may make the strenuous start more mentally bearable; there's also great gear placements in the crack. Continue up the face with crimps and reachy incuts to a ledge at the top.

As with many other Leda routes, the DCA rating of 5.7 is a bit of a sandbag.

NOTE: this route is erroneously listed in the Chatt Steel guidebook as "Disdain Campaign."

Location

Starts just left of the Fanfair arete and 15' right of Free to Think.

Protection

Five bolts, ring anchors.

Photos

saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.7+
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.7+
Still one of my favorites at Leda. This time I skipped the stick clip for the start and jammed the crack instead of laybacking; felt pretty secure, but it was still nice to grab the huge hero jug to clip that first bolt. May 27, 2008
Swamp Cookie
da Bayou
  5.7+
Swamp Cookie   da Bayou
  5.7+
This is one of my favorites also. I head straight for this route everytime I go to Leda. Excellent warm up with a great top out ledge. Don't forget to check out the view. Aug 14, 2009
this is a leda classic. warm up on fanfair and then lead this one. stick clip, stopper in the crack, or just do the boulder problem (V1) and clip. all options are great. Oct 3, 2009
marc girardot
  5.7+
marc girardot  
  5.7+
Highly recommend stick clipping or protecting the crack the first time around. Seems like a breeze but it was like a hand came out of the wall and pushed me off. Luckily the ground is flat here. Nov 7, 2011
highneed
  5.7+
highneed  
  5.7+
Climbed this route this weekend as a well protected gear route, almost entirely on passive gear. Pretty much follows the bolt line except for a 5-6 deviation at the 4th bolt to get some gear in. Aug 19, 2012
Daniel H. Bryant
Colorado Springs, CO
Daniel H. Bryant   Colorado Springs, CO
This was the first sport route I ever led, back in the summer of 2000, when I used to live in Chatty.....As I remember it, a 5.7+, work up the crack, reach overhead for the solid hold, pull then push up onto the ledge for the first bolt, cake walk after that. Sep 5, 2013
kyle howe
Knoxville, TN
kyle howe   Knoxville, TN
Fantastic route. Don't TR, too much rope rub. Oct 5, 2013
Jeff Wilges
Pemberton, BC
  5.8
Jeff Wilges   Pemberton, BC
  5.8
MP uses the Dixie Cragger name and grade for the route. Chatt Steel lists this route as "Disdain Campaign" (5.8). May 17, 2016