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Speedway Boogie [Edit]
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.8 from 92
votes
Routes in Leda
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Ancient of Days S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Anubis S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Battered Women S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bethany S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Blood Covenant S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bone-Yard PickN S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Brass Monkey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Chip Away S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cracked Actor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cumberland Blues T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Eagle Wings S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fanfair S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Free to Think T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Future lies here, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Girls Only S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Good and Plenty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gotten Goat S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Grail Saga, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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GumbEE S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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House of Giza S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Immortal Altar S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jody's Route (aka The Chris' Route) S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Knock on Rock S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lock Down S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lolita's Deluge S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Margin Walker S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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My Little Patina S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Oh So Sweet T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Old Foot S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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One Percent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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One and Lonely, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Optimus Prime T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ox Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Playground Medley S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Psychotic Reaction S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Relapse T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Smoke S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Speedway Boogie S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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TJ's Demise S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Temple of Doom S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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University Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Varmint S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Vogen Slab S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Walk By Me T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,565 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | saxfiend on Nov 26, 2006 |
| Admins: | saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough |
Your Star Rating:
Description [Edit]
This may be the nicest moderate sport route at Leda. From a crack climbing start to balancy face moves, it's a fun challenge all the way.
Starting at an obvious crack just left of a small arete, use hand jams or layback to work your way up to a welcome huge jug just under the very high first bolt. Stick clipping may make the strenuous start more mentally bearable; there's also great gear placements in the crack. Continue up the face with crimps and reachy incuts to a ledge at the top.
As with many other Leda routes, the DCA rating of 5.7 is a bit of a sandbag.
NOTE: this route is erroneously listed in the Chatt Steel guidebook as "Disdain Campaign."
Starting at an obvious crack just left of a small arete, use hand jams or layback to work your way up to a welcome huge jug just under the very high first bolt. Stick clipping may make the strenuous start more mentally bearable; there's also great gear placements in the crack. Continue up the face with crimps and reachy incuts to a ledge at the top.
As with many other Leda routes, the DCA rating of 5.7 is a bit of a sandbag.
NOTE: this route is erroneously listed in the Chatt Steel guidebook as "Disdain Campaign."
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