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Routes in Leda

Ancient of Days S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Anubis S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Battered Women S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bethany S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blood Covenant S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bone-Yard PickN S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brass Monkey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chip Away S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cracked Actor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cumberland Blues T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eagle Wings S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fanfair S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Free to Think T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Future lies here, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Girls Only S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good and Plenty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gotten Goat S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Grail Saga, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
GumbEE S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
House of Giza S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Immortal Altar S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jody's Route (aka The Chris' Route) S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knock on Rock S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lock Down S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lolita's Deluge S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Margin Walker S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
My Little Patina S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Oh So Sweet T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Old Foot S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
One Percent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
One and Lonely, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Optimus Prime T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ox Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playground Medley S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Psychotic Reaction S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Relapse T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smoke S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Speedway Boogie S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
TJ's Demise S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Temple of Doom S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
University Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Varmint S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Vogen Slab S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk By Me T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,347 total, 25/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 26, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Description

This may be the nicest moderate sport route at Leda. From a crack climbing start to balancy face moves, it's a fun challenge all the way.

Starting at an obvious crack just left of a small arete, use hand jams or layback to work your way up to a welcome huge jug just under the very high first bolt. Stick clipping may make the strenuous start more mentally bearable; there's also great gear placements in the crack. Continue up the face with crimps and reachy incuts to a ledge at the top.

As with many other Leda routes, the DCA rating of 5.7 is a bit of a sandbag.

NOTE: this route is erroneously listed in the Chatt Steel guidebook as "Disdain Campaign."

Location

Starts just left of the Fanfair arete and 15' right of Free to Think.

Protection

Five bolts, ring anchors.

Photos

Jeff Wilges
Bellingham, WA
  5.8
Jeff Wilges   Bellingham, WA
  5.8
MP uses the Dixie Cragger name and grade for the route. Chatt Steel lists this route as "Disdain Campaign" (5.8). May 17, 2016
khowe
Knoxville, TN
khowe   Knoxville, TN
Fantastic route. Don't TR, too much rope rub. Oct 5, 2013
Daniel H. Bryant
Colorado Springs, CO
Daniel H. Bryant   Colorado Springs, CO
This was the first sport route I ever led, back in the summer of 2000, when I used to live in Chatty.....As I remember it, a 5.7+, work up the crack, reach overhead for the solid hold, pull then push up onto the ledge for the first bolt, cake walk after that. Sep 5, 2013
highneed
  5.7+
highneed  
  5.7+
Climbed this route this weekend as a well protected gear route, almost entirely on passive gear. Pretty much follows the bolt line except for a 5-6 deviation at the 4th bolt to get some gear in. Aug 19, 2012
marc girardot
  5.7+
marc girardot  
  5.7+
Highly recommend stick clipping or protecting the crack the first time around. Seems like a breeze but it was like a hand came out of the wall and pushed me off. Luckily the ground is flat here. Nov 7, 2011
this is a leda classic. warm up on fanfair and then lead this one. stick clip, stopper in the crack, or just do the boulder problem (V1) and clip. all options are great. Oct 3, 2009
Swamp Cookie
da Bayou
  5.7+
Swamp Cookie   da Bayou
  5.7+
This is one of my favorites also. I head straight for this route everytime I go to Leda. Excellent warm up with a great top out ledge. Don't forget to check out the view. Aug 14, 2009
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
 
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
 
Still one of my favorites at Leda. This time I skipped the stick clip for the start and jammed the crack instead of laybacking; felt pretty secure, but it was still nice to grab the huge hero jug to clip that first bolt. May 27, 2008