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Routes in Leda

Ancient of Days S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Anubis S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Battered Women S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bethany S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blood Covenant S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bone-Yard PickN S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brass Monkey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chip Away S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cracked Actor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cumberland Blues T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eagle Wings S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fanfair S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Free to Think T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Future lies here, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Girls Only S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good and Plenty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gotten Goat S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Grail Saga, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
GumbEE S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
House of Giza S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Immortal Altar S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jody's Route (aka The Chris' Route) S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knock on Rock S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lock Down S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lolita's Deluge S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Margin Walker S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
My Little Patina S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Oh So Sweet T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Old Foot S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
One Percent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
One and Lonely, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Optimus Prime T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ox Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playground Medley S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Psychotic Reaction S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Relapse T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smoke S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Speedway Boogie S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
TJ's Demise S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Temple of Doom S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
University Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Varmint S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Vogen Slab S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk By Me T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,590 total · 20/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Jul 16, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Description

One of the relatively few trad lines at Leda, Free to Think is short but fun and well-protected.

Starting at an obvious corner below a ledge, boulder past a chockstone through an overhang to the ledge. Move left and follow the crack in the corner using good jams and stemming. The route ends at ring anchors on a shallow ledge, which is the starting point for a harder sport climb (Temple of Doom).

Location

Starts about 15' left of Speedway Boogie.

Protection

Medium gear, up to maybe 3". Bolted anchors.

Photos

Mike Lambino
Jasper, Ga
  5.8-
Mike Lambino   Jasper, Ga
  5.8-
The start to the route is the hardest part, which isn't bad at all. For 5.8 this crack is so good it came out the dealers mouth dry! Great lead, wish it was longer. Oct 10, 2012
Rachael429
Chattanooga, TN
  5.7+
Rachael429   Chattanooga, TN
  5.7+
This was my first trad climb. The beginning is kinda weird. I went left and mounted up to the beginning of the crack. Easy climb overall. Aug 28, 2012
Jeremy Hand
Northern VA
  5.8
Jeremy Hand   Northern VA
  5.8
Keep your head straight for the start and then figure out the perfect combination of crack and face climbing to the juggy roof. Aug 23, 2012
highneed
  5.7
highneed  
  5.7
Bizarre route. Awkward bouldery start (12'), decent 5.6 corner(20'), easy roof (4'),4th class exit (20'). Still a good route for new leaders. Aug 19, 2012
ChillFancy
Chattanooga, TN
  5.7
ChillFancy   Chattanooga, TN
  5.7
Easy climb with a strange start. The climb is made easier by the plentiful features on the right face; I've seen the route done crack only though. Takes gear all the way up, would be a great first lead. Jun 23, 2012
Can be topped easily by walking over on ledge from Fanfair, Speedway Boogie or Cracked Actor.

Anchors looked good on 11-6-2011. Used to top rope it. Nov 7, 2011
The ring anchors are suspect. Jan 28, 2011
cshuey77 shuey
Asheviile,nc
 
cshuey77 shuey   Asheviile,nc
 
fun route but be careful, this crack is polished. May 27, 2010