Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Chris Gibson, Chris Willis - date unknown
Page Views: 4,835 total · 33/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 27, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


67 Opinions

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Description

The signature tough sport climb at Leda, Jody's Route has an interesting background. According to local climbers, Jody Evans had his eye on this line and planned to do the first ascent, but never got around to it. Instead, the two Chrises (Gibson and Willis) bolted it ground up on lead. So Leda old-timers call it The Chris' Route (plural, not possessive). Most people who climb here, however, don't know this obscure history, so Jody's Route it is.

This excellent and aesthetic route has a tough, bouldery start, so stick-clipping is wise. Power through the start and past the first bolt, then up the steep face to a reachy crux. Passing this, the climb ends with some fun roof moves, which are pumpy but actually not quite as hard as the rest of the route.

Location

Starts near the far left end of the crag, just right of the Good and Plenty corner crack.

Protection

Six bolts, bolted anchors.

Photos

426
426  
Great route, one of the best of Leda... Mar 14, 2007
super fun route. the pump factor leads to the rating with the roof finish. most moves are 10a/b with a rather tough start. Oct 3, 2009
Jeremy Hand
Northern VA
  5.10b
Jeremy Hand   Northern VA
  5.10b
There are several start variations from the looks of things, each offering a slightly different approach to the first bolt.

Stick clip the first bolt to instill some confidence for the low crux. Take advantage of a great rest and continue up the ledges into an awesome undercling move with a high foot. Top out straight up to avoid blowing on the spinning bolt. Aug 23, 2012
Thanks for sharing that obscure history! Mar 27, 2014