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Routes in Leda

Ancient of Days S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Anubis S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Battered Women S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bethany S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blood Covenant S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bone-Yard PickN S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brass Monkey S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chip Away S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cracked Actor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cumberland Blues T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eagle Wings S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fanfair S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Free to Think T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Future lies here, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Girls Only S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good and Plenty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gotten Goat S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Grail Saga, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
GumbEE S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
House of Giza S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Immortal Altar S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jody's Route (aka The Chris' Route) S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knock on Rock S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lock Down S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lolita's Deluge S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Margin Walker S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
My Little Patina S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Oh So Sweet T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Old Foot S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
One Percent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
One and Lonely, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Optimus Prime T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ox Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playground Medley S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Psychotic Reaction S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Relapse T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smoke S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Speedway Boogie S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
TJ's Demise S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Temple of Doom S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
University Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Varmint S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Vogen Slab S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk By Me T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Elevation: 1,410 ft
GPS: 35.236, -85.227 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 52,335 total · 363/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 17, 2006 with updates from Robert Hall and 1 other
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough
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Description

Convenient location, easy approach, nice rock, a mix of trad and sport climbs -- what more could you want from a climbing destination? Well . . . in the case of Leda -- longer routes and more of them. But this little roadside crag is still a worthwhile destination when you have limited time or T-Wall is closed for hunting.

Like other crags in the Chattanooga area, Leda is a sandstone cliff. The rock quality is mostly very good, and a nice variety of routes can be found here. Many of these are sport lines, with a number of easy routes ideal for the climber making his or her first lead. Probably the most popular route at Leda is Jody's Route, also known as Chris' Route, an outstanding 5.10c/d either way, you choose to call it.

There's also enough good trad climbing at Leda to make bringing your rack worthwhile. Nice routes to scope out include Ox Stone Crack (5.8+) and Cracked Actor (5.10).

Leda is on privately-owned land, and a one-time liability waiver is required. A short distance along the trail is a climbers kiosk placed by the Southeastern Climbers Coalition, where you can find the form to fill out and deposit in a holding box.

Editor's note on ratings: My experience of climbing at Leda is that many, if not most, of the easy to moderate routes are harder than the grade in the DCA. In some cases, I've taken the liberty of giving these routes ratings that I think are more in line with what you'll encounter at other local crags such as T-Wall or Foster Falls; in each case, I've also listed the rating given in the book. Anyone who disagrees with this rating method is welcome to contact me, or better yet, give it your own consensus rating.

Background and Resources

The history of climbing at Leda is not well documented, and little first-ascent information is recorded in any known guides.

For years, the only guide to the place was some photocopied pages that referred to the routes by letters of the alphabet. The more recently published Dixie Cragger's Atlas shows the routes by their actual names; this is mostly based on a handwritten guide by Matt Sims. If you can find it, Micah Gentry's PDF guide was a reliable source of information on both Leda and Lower Leda, but internet links to it are no longer valid. The Chatt Steel guidebook includes Leda, but with a number of inaccuracies.

Rocker Press offers a more up to date full Leda guide for purchase as well as a free day guide from their website, here.

Access and Fees

As of 2016, there is an $8.00 access fee per climber payable at the Montlake Golf Course Clubhouse. Each visitor must also sign and submit a Liability Waiver at the clubhouse as a one-time process. The waiver can be downloaded and printed off from the Southeastern Climbers Coalition Site, here.

Getting There

After the original pull-off parking area was posted as no parking, volunteers created a short access trail that connects to a paved parking area to the northeast of the crag.

From downtown Chattanooga, go north on U.S. 27 toward Dayton. Take the Chickamauga Dam exit; going left from the exit travel along Dayton Boulevard and then take a left on Montlake Road soon after crossing Chickamagua Creek. Keep following this winding road until the parking area can be found at the top of a sharp hairpin across from Terrace Falls Drive.

From the parking area, follow the access trail west passing beneath some power lines (see beta photo). The trail takes approximately 15-20 minutes to travel.

44 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Leda

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 66
Walk By Me
Trad, Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 92
Fanfair
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 98
Speedway Boogie
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 51
Free to Think
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 37
Ox Crack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 41
House of Giza
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 30
Vogen Slab
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 40
Old Foot
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 38
TJ's Demise
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 16
Optimus Prime
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 74
Girls Only
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 53
Cracked Actor
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 64
Jody's Route (aka The Chris' Route)
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 29
Lock Down
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 12
Varmint
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Walk By Me
 66
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Sport
Fanfair
 92
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Speedway Boogie
 98
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Free to Think
 51
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Ox Crack
 37
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
House of Giza
 41
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Vogen Slab
 30
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Old Foot
 40
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
TJ's Demise
 38
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Optimus Prime
 16
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Girls Only
 74
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Cracked Actor
 53
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Jody's Route (aka The Chris…
 64
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Lock Down
 29
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Varmint
 12
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
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TKHouse  
Since Dr. Topo went down, I was wondering if anyone had the .pdf guidebook mentioned in the area description. I did some searching and couldn't find it elsewhere online. I've got the DCA, but it would be nice to see some updated info on lower Leda.

Thanks! May 12, 2010
lid
lid  
Topo PDF Jun 7, 2010
TKHouse  
I haven't confirmed this personally, but per a post on the SCC website, parking at the main Leeda cliff (in the road pulloffs) is now reserved for emergency vehicles.

seclimbers.org/modules/Foru…

Not sure if parking lower down the road is permitted or not. Be careful heading up or down the road, people fly through there! Jul 29, 2013
kyle howe
Knoxville, TN
kyle howe   Knoxville, TN
Yes, to confirm, all pulloffs are for "Emergency Parking Only." There is a small paved pulloff up the road directly across from the first entrance to the Montlake neighborhood, we saw a few climbers park there. Aug 3, 2013
Bobby Hutton
Gold Country CA
Bobby Hutton   Gold Country CA
The SCC recently added a trail from the upper parking around the hair pin corner down to the right side of LEDA next to University route. For more info.
seclimbers.org/modules.php?…
seclimbers.org/modules.php?… Dec 4, 2013


You can download a FREE Leda Day Guide from Rockery Press by clicking on the following link: rockerypress.com/free-day-g…

Leda Free Guide includes:
  • Driving & Approach Beta
  • Rules & Recommendations
  • Several days of route descriptions and recommendations
Oct 13, 2014
RMletu  
Nice climbing area. When taking the trail from the parking area, it is best to fallow the creek and power lines down until the trail picks up again. It appears that it continues across the creek and up. Countinuing up takes you to the top of the climbs for setting up top ropes. Careful if taking that route as it is a little sketchy up there in spots.

I found a pair of scarpa climbing shoes by the Vogen slab. Contact me if they were yours.
Also if anyone has picked up a pair of smith sun glasses around speedway boogie they might be mine. I live too far away to drive back to try and find a them.. Mar 30, 2016
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
It seems we are getting submissions for routes that are already in the database. I think its because some of the names that are used in the Chatt Steel book are different (for some reason) that the names that existed in the old PDF of Leda and the names listed in the DCA. We probably need to come up with a plan on which routes names to use so this doesn't continue to happen. Ideas/Suggestions? Thanks. May 16, 2016
Dallas R
Traveling the USA
Dallas R   Traveling the USA
The Jun 7, 2010 link form LID still works. Pullouts are well posted for no parking. We started going to the golf course pay our dues then driving back to the emergency pullout just above the LEDA kiosk and dumping gear and climbers. Then one hardy volunteer would take the vehicle back up to the parking area and hike the trail back. We tried walking the road one day and that was just scary, no shoulder. Unfortunate that the price has gone up to $8.00 per person. May 27, 2016
Peter Y
Atlanta, GA
Peter Y   Atlanta, GA
If your group is headed to Leda in separate cars, please carpool from the Montlake Golf parking lot if possible. The Leda lot at the trailhead is small and fills up quick Jun 10, 2018

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