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Routes in Leda

Ancient of Days S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Anubis S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Battered Women S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bethany S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blood Covenant S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bone-Yard PickN S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brass Monkey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chip Away S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cracked Actor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cumberland Blues T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eagle Wings S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fanfair S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Free to Think T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Future lies here, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Girls Only S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good and Plenty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gotten Goat S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Grail Saga, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
GumbEE S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
House of Giza S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Immortal Altar S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jody's Route (aka The Chris' Route) S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knock on Rock S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lock Down S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lolita's Deluge S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Margin Walker S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
My Little Patina S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Oh So Sweet T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Old Foot S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
One Percent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
One and Lonely, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Optimus Prime T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ox Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playground Medley S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Psychotic Reaction S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Relapse T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smoke S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Speedway Boogie S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
TJ's Demise S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Temple of Doom S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
University Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Varmint S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Vogen Slab S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk By Me T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,320 total, 37/month
Shared By: saxfiend on May 27, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Probably the nicest trad line at Leda. Great pro all the way makes some of the dicey moves more mentally bearable.

Start as for Free to Think, bouldering up through the juggy roof to a ledge. Move left to the obvious crack in the left face; follow this feature as it turns into a short, awkward off-width. After negotiating the off-width, continue up the thinning finger crack, saving some reserves for a juggy but pumpy roof move at the finish.

Location

Shares start with Free to Think, about 15' left of Speedway Boogie.

Protection

Mostly small to medium gear, though at least one big cam will be necessary in the off-width section. Ring anchors at the top.

Photos

Jeremy Hand
  5.9+
Jeremy Hand  
  5.9+
Awesome squeeze with some slightly hidden crimps that help with the ascent. Finagle your way out of the OW and clamber through the finger locks to jugs.

IMHO, this is one of the best routes at LEDA, whether trad or TR Aug 23, 2012
highneed
  5.10a/b
highneed  
  5.10a/b
Beautiful crack, that climbs as good as she looks. The crux is finding it without top ropers that walked over from Speedway. Aug 20, 2012
Chad Burdyshaw
Signal Mountain TN
  5.9+
Chad Burdyshaw   Signal Mountain TN
  5.9+
If you're short on trad gear, you can toprope this route by climbing one of the neighboring sport routes (fanfair, speedway boogie) and traversing the ledge to the anchors. Same for "Free To Think". Aug 27, 2010
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
You can actually forego the big stuff. Boulder up to the ledge, walk left and put a piece or two in. Climb up into the offwidth - hard to fall out - put in a piece at the top before pulling the fingerlock and getting established in the upper crack and face. Wish the upper part was about 50 feet longer. Jun 6, 2010
cshuey77 shuey
Asheviile,nc
 
cshuey77 shuey   Asheviile,nc
 
great gear, and good rests the whole way. make sure you face the right way in the offwidth!! May 27, 2010