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Routes in Lower Leda

5.5 Trad T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Big Dave's S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cannonball S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crisis of Confidence S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cryptic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Definite Maybe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Footloose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gigantic S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Guardian Angel S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hematoma S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
I Love Twins T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Misunderstood T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Talent Ass Clown S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Poptop S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Return, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rusty S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sands of Rhyme T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Treehugger S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Treet T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Up Game, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elevation: 1,009 ft
GPS: 35.236, -85.232 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 12,739 total · 109/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Jun 23, 2008 with updates
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

Description

Though it shares the name of the better known Leda (aka Upper Leda) and is in the same general neighborhood, Lower Leda is a completely separate climbing area. Because the cliffline that's worth climbing is relatively short, Lower Leda has only about 25 routes, most of them bolted sport lines. This small volume is made up for by the high quality of the routes on good sandstone. There's also a good range of grades, with a couple of casual 5.5 trad lines; nice sport moderates like The Return (5.8+) and Guardian Angel (5.9+); and challenging 5.12s like Crisis of Confidence.

Lower Leda is a great alternative destination when the main Leda cliff is crowded.

Getting There

From downtown Chattanooga, go north on U.S. 27 toward Dayton. Take the Chickamauga Dam exit; going left from the exit, drive almost three miles to the second traffic light. Turn left here onto Montlake Mountain Road. Just before a sharp hairpin turn, watch for the entrance to a state park on the left. Park here and cross the road to find a trail about 50' up the road from the park entrance. A 10-minute (or less) hike up the trail will bring you to the base of the cliff.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Leda

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gigantic
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Treehugger
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Love Twins
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Return
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Guardian Angel
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Talent Ass Clown
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Dave's
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cryptic
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
The Up Game
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gigantic 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Treehugger 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
I Love Twins 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Return 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Guardian Angel 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
No Talent Ass Clown 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Big Dave's 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Cryptic 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Up Game 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lower Leda »

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Does anyone know if climbers need to check into the Montlake Clubhouse to climb Lower Leda? Also, the Mountain Project directions are different than these: seclimbers.org/modules.php?…

Any local knowledge would be appreciated.

ADMIN's NOTE: If you read the information at the link above carefully, you'll see that it says "the fee to climb at Leda and Lower Leda is $6. Climbers must visit Montlake clubhouse (same checkin as Stone Fort) to checkin and pay." So the answer to your question is, yes.

The reason the MP directions above are different from those on the SCC website is because Leda and Lower Leda are two different areas.
Nov 19, 2016


You can download a FREE Lower Leda Day Guide from Rockery Press by clicking on the following link: rockerypress.com/free-day-g…

Lower Leda Free Guide includes:
Driving & Approach Beta
Rules & Recommendations
Several days of route descriptions and recommendations Oct 13, 2014
Swamp Cookie
da Bayou
Swamp Cookie   da Bayou
We actually have a couple of 5.12's and a 5.13a at lower leda. Fun for everyone. Trad, sport, and mixed routes. Feb 28, 2010
Kit Taylor
Atlanta, GA
Kit Taylor   Atlanta, GA
Not nearly as many routes at upper Leda, but with almost a dozen quality, sustained, bolted moderates up to a 5.10 this a great area for new leaders or to take friends who don't climb. Add in the quickest approach ever and you have the makings for a relaxing day of easy climbing. Oct 26, 2009

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