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Lower Leda

Tennessee > Leda

Description

Though it shares the name of the better known Leda (aka Upper Leda) and is in the same general neighborhood, Lower Leda is a completely separate climbing area. Because the cliffline that's worth climbing is relatively short, Lower Leda has only about 25 routes, most of them bolted sport lines. This small volume is made up for by the high quality of the routes on good sandstone. There's also a good range of grades, with a couple of casual 5.5 trad lines; nice sport moderates like The Return (5.8+) and Guardian Angel (5.9+); and challenging 5.12s like Crisis of Confidence.

Lower Leda is a great alternative destination when the main Leda cliff is crowded.

Getting There

From downtown Chattanooga, go north on U.S. 27 toward Dayton. Take the Chickamauga Dam exit; going left from the exit, drive almost three miles to the second traffic light. Turn left here onto Montlake Mountain Road. Just before a sharp hairpin turn, watch for the entrance to a state park on the left. Park here and cross the road to find a trail about 50' up the road from the park entrance. A 10-minute (or less) hike up the trail will bring you to the base of the cliff.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
Treet
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 32
Cryptic
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 1
Hematoma
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
Misunderstood
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Cannonball
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 21
Crisis of Confidence
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 26
Rusty
Sport, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 32
Footloose
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 67
Treehugger
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
5.5 Trad
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 23
Definite Maybe
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 40
No Talent Ass Clown
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 22
Sands of Rhyme
Trad, Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 43
The Up Game
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 93
Guardian Angel
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 3
I Love Guardian Angels
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 18
I Love Twins
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 85
Gigantic
Sport, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 66
The Return
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 39
Big Dave's
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 30
Poptop
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Treet
 1
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Cryptic
 32
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Hematoma
 1
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Misunderstood
 2
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Cannonball
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Crisis of Confidence
 21
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Rusty
 26
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Footloose
 32
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Treehugger
 67
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
5.5 Trad
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Definite Maybe
 23
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
No Talent Ass Clown
 40
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Sands of Rhyme
 22
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
The Up Game
 43
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Guardian Angel
 93
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
I Love Guardian Angels
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
I Love Twins
 18
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Gigantic
 85
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
The Return
 66
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Big Dave's
 39
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Poptop
 30
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The TrailHead
[Hide Photo] The TrailHead
If you see hardware at Leda that needs replaced, please report it on badbolts.com. It takes an active community to preserve our climbing areas!
[Hide Photo] If you see hardware at Leda that needs replaced, please report it on badbolts.com. It takes an active community to preserve our climbing areas!
1. Oh Gigantic 5.7<br>
2. The Return 5.8<br>
3. Big Dave's 5.10<br>
4. Poptop 5.9
[Hide Photo] 1. Oh Gigantic 5.7 2. The Return 5.8 3. Big Dave's 5.10 4. Poptop 5.9
Another shot from the approach trail.
[Hide Photo] Another shot from the approach trail.
Approaching the cliff...
[Hide Photo] Approaching the cliff...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kit Taylor
Atlanta, GA
[Hide Comment] Not nearly as many routes at upper Leda, but with almost a dozen quality, sustained, bolted moderates up to a 5.10 this a great area for new leaders or to take friends who don't climb. Add in the quickest approach ever and you have the makings for a relaxing day of easy climbing. Oct 26, 2009
Elden Zen
originally da Bayou, now in…
[Hide Comment] We actually have a couple of 5.12's and a 5.13a at lower leda. Fun for everyone. Trad, sport, and mixed routes. Feb 28, 2010
[Hide Comment]
Lower Leda FREE Day Guide


You can download a FREE Lower Leda Day Guide from Rockery Press by clicking on the following link: rockerypress.com/free-day-g…

Lower Leda Free Guide includes:
Driving & Approach Beta
Rules & Recommendations
Several days of route descriptions and recommendations Oct 13, 2014
[Hide Comment] Does anyone know if climbers need to check into the Montlake Clubhouse to climb Lower Leda? Also, the Mountain Project directions are different than these: seclimbers.org/modules.php?…

Any local knowledge would be appreciated.

ADMIN's NOTE: If you read the information at the link above carefully, you'll see that it says "the fee to climb at Leda and Lower Leda is $6. Climbers must visit Montlake clubhouse (same checkin as Stone Fort) to checkin and pay." So the answer to your question is, yes.

The reason the MP directions above are different from those on the SCC website is because Leda and Lower Leda are two different areas.
Nov 19, 2016
Riley Flanagan
Atlanta, GA
[Hide Comment] A friendly note to climbers:

Climbing is such a beautiful sport that is community driven. It’s the community that helps make its safer as everyone chimes in about gear wear out, rock changes, new rules in locations, trail days, access funds and just helping others from getting lost. As this sport continues to get more and more popular, let’s not forget the community of it and enjoy these wonderful climbs with everyone. Welcome in other climbers around you. Share stories, betas and skills on making climbs safer. Share the walls. As all the crags are getting more and more crowded, if you’re with a group of people, try to not hog a classic route for hours. Encourage others that cross by interested, to join in with your group by mixing the groups together, taking turns on the climb. Not only is this just a nice thing to do, but it’ll get the two groups to communicate and mingle. You never know what you will learn from other climbers and you just might create new friends. You already have one awesome thing in common.

Climbing for generations was a skill passed down from experienced mentors to new eager climbers. Normally one mentor taking in one new climber at a time. As this process still exist and is still very vital to climbing, it just can’t keep up with the influx of thousands of new climbers interested in the sport. With so many new climbers missing out on the generations of knowledge, on how and why some things are done, the sport can become reckless. This is more the reason for the community of climbing to remain strong. More the reason to share climbs with other groups. To swap stories and skills that have been learned and passed down. More the reason for climbers to listen to other’s suggestions on how to do things differently. You may even disagree with someones way of doing things, but always thank them for sharing and consider all the pros and cons of their new advice. If you disagree, be open and share why you think otherwise. Because you may become the teacher in that moment to something they haven’t thought of or just over looked. It’s essential that both parties stay open minded. As we are all sharing to keep the sport safe, fun and welcoming.

More importantly, Send It! Mar 7, 2023