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Routes in Leda

Ancient of Days S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Anubis S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Battered Women S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bethany S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blood Covenant S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bone-Yard PickN S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brass Monkey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chip Away S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cracked Actor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cumberland Blues T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eagle Wings S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fanfair S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Free to Think T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Future lies here, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Girls Only S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good and Plenty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gotten Goat S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Grail Saga, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
GumbEE S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
House of Giza S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Immortal Altar S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jody's Route (aka The Chris' Route) S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knock on Rock S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lock Down S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lolita's Deluge S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Margin Walker S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
My Little Patina S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Oh So Sweet T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Old Foot S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
One Percent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
One and Lonely, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Optimus Prime T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ox Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playground Medley S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Psychotic Reaction S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Relapse T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smoke S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Speedway Boogie S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
TJ's Demise S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Temple of Doom S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
University Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Varmint S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Vogen Slab S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk By Me T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,169 total, 9/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 26, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

A bouldery start on crimpy holds makes this a really tough climb to get off the ground. Rumor is that a key hold has broken off, which might explain the laughably sandbagged 5.7 DCA rating.

Starting below an overhanging arete, claw your way up on thin holds to somewhat easier ground. Stick-clipping the first bolt is strongly recommended. If you can't make the bouldery start, the right face of the arete is a somewhat easier alternative. Follow the arete, then trend right to finish on the Walk By Me anchors.

Location

Just past the trailside kiosk, starts left of Walk By Me.

Protection

Three bolts, bolted anchors (shared with Walk By Me). Some medium cams are recommended in addition to the bolts.

Photos

Kang Climb  
 
I don't think this should be listed as its own sports climb -- there are 3 bolts to the left but after that it's about 30 feet to the anchor, or else you have to traverse to the Walk by Me bolts which then basically makes it 50% Knock on Rock and 50% Walk by Me if you don't have trad gear for the 2nd half of this climb. 11 hours ago
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
 
Climbed this in Nov 2005 when we were visiting there. My Recollection is it was about 5.7 then, so if consensus is 5.9+, most likely something changed, or we "cheated" by starting right-ish??? Feb 27, 2017
adoit90
Atlanta, GA
  5.7+ PG13
adoit90   Atlanta, GA
  5.7+ PG13
Much easier if you start right of the arete then traverse left to the bolts as others have mentioned. If you don't have any/don't want to place any trad gear, traverse right to Walk By Me's top couple of bolts to avoid getting too run-out before the anchors.

Okay climb, but some weird moves and way too run-out for my taste. Mar 14, 2014
Mark O'Neal
Nicholson, GA
Mark O'Neal   Nicholson, GA
Skip the stupid boulder start by moving 10 feet to the right. You can then angle up and left on good holds and just clip the 2nd bolt. The rest of it is fun Jun 9, 2013
Jeremy Hand
Northern VA
  5.10a
Jeremy Hand   Northern VA
  5.10a
Climbed the arete using the small crimps on the right face. SUPER, SUPER run-out on way easy climbing. Stick clip is extremely suggested. There is a great possibility of decking if you don't clip right. Aug 23, 2012