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Routes in Sculpture's Crack Wall

Sand Blast TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sculpted Crack Left TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sculpture's Crack TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sculpture's Crack Traverse V2 5+
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,696 total, 38/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Nov 3, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Pin-scarred crack leads ominously to the long and strenuous lieback, although jamming could be employed, it's a race against time to the final (and cruxy) squirm over the top through the slot on the right.

Protection

Top rope, bolts on top - inspect before use.
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
no more than 40 ft tall, in case others also use shorter ropes like i do Aug 10, 2016
dnaiscool  
 
Dan's 1970 free ascent has to be one of the earliest for this route. In the late 1960's and early 1970's both Sculpture's and Sand Blast were still being aid climbed with regular frequency. That's how I did them at the time. I think Robbins or Tom Higgins may have done the FFA of these, but that Sand Blast may have been a Bachar tick from the mid-70's. Kudos for the 1970 free ascent, which was hard core for the time!! Note also that there is no chalk to be seen, and that is because use of chalk in climbing was still in its infancy in 1970. Very few of us were using it at all back then, but slowly it made its way to the boulders out front where climbers would each bring a cube of the stuff to rub it on their fingers. Then you'd just leave the cube on the ground while you did a problem, and the real bummer came when someone stepped on your cube. Eventually we started putting it in tiny "Gerry" stuff sacks, and you'd clip this to your swami by the loop that cinched it closed, which did not work very well, because ever time you dipped, it would close down around your wrists. The invention of the modern chalkbag really helped...but just remember kids...it weren't always that way... Jul 14, 2015
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
Looking good Dan - thanks for posting. May 21, 2015