Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sculpture's Crack Wall

Sand Blast TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sculpted Crack Left TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sculpture's Crack TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sculpture's Crack Traverse V2 5+
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,071 total, 32/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on May 26, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


17 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Originally started at Sculpture's Crack and headed right - but right to left is better IMHO...

Get up onto the first good hold and then make a tough reachy move (crux) onto the main rail - follow this to Sculpture's Crack, or continue past the Crack to the alcove finish with a strenuous and dicey move left and out of it.

Location

See Jordan's photo

Protection

Pad and spotter.
Not easy! V4-v5 IMO. Just came from here February 7th 2016. This was super hard with a lack of foot holds past the crux. Started right and once I got to the top of the crack on the first good hol, I couldn't seem to find any good footing after tha. I think the foot holds must be worn down since it was rated a V1-2. Cant wait to try this again! Feb 8, 2016
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
Thanks for the promo Rob!

Once I use up Ed3 print run I'll do another edition and try and get all of the new stuff. Aug 4, 2011
coreylee
Sacramento, CA
coreylee   Sacramento, CA
Germsauce, I just visited your sister and she loved the stoney point. She has great endurance! Jul 14, 2011
Rob Gordon
Hollywood, CA
  V3
Rob Gordon   Hollywood, CA
  V3
The best version of the traverse IMO goes from the sit on the right through the bulge to the last hold before the tree, then back right and down into the sit again. I keep falling/slipping on the last move back into the sit, but I reckon it's probably 5.12ish.

The whole thing is pretty beta intensive and pumpy, so it's hard to rate. Don't matter much though. It's a great problem whatever the rating.

Urban Rock by Chris Owen is a pretty accurate guidebook except for a few notable breaks this year. May 18, 2011
i'm sorry but v-1 or v-2? my sister lives nearby so i've climbed stoney when visiting from Colorado probably 5-6 times and this is one of my favorite spots (i've yet to see a guidebook).
The starting moves are pretty stout for v-2 and does this traverse go through the awkward beta-intensive moves that go 5-6 feet past the sculpture crack (past the bulge and blind reach)? If so i'd say 3+ at least for the entire traverse right to left.

Thoughts?
also- if anyone knows of a good source beyond MTPrj for stoney point beta please pass it along. i like this place, but feel like i'd love to know more about grades and good spots to climb.
May 18, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
Picture of Michael Reardon on Sculpture's Traverse . Mar 22, 2010