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Areas in Stoney Point

Ace Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Amphitheater 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
B1 Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Back Wall 1 / 0 / 11 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Beethoven's Wall 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Bone Chipper 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Boulder 1 0 / 0 / 0 / 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Boulder Opposite Pyramid 0 / 0 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Canyon Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Cap Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Carousel Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Chouinard's Hole 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Eat Out More Often (aka Power Glide) 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Hot Tuna Buttress 0 / 0 / 4 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Jam Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Jesus Wall 1 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 6
Lion's Head 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Lost in the Woods 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Main Wall 2 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Mozart's Wall 0 / 0 / 6 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Nabisco Canyon 1 / 0 / 9 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Nutcracker Buttress 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Pile Ups 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Pin Scars Wall 1 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Pink Drips Wall 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Pump Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Pyramid Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Road Side Rock 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Roof Rock 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Sculpture's Crack Wall 0 / 0 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Slab Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Slander Land II 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Slant Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Slap Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
South Buttress 1 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
South Buttress 2 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
South Buttress 3 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Spiral Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Split Rock 0 / 0 / 2 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Stock Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Summit Boulders 0 / 0 / 3 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Turlock 0 / 0 / 7 / 22 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22

Description

The local area for the climbers of Los Angeles; Stoney Point can boast to be one of the very first bouldering areas anywhere. It’s historic significance should not be underestimated – many of America’s luminaries cut their teeth here; Royal Robbins, Yvon Chouinard, Bob Kamps, Ron Kauk, John Long, and John Bachar to name but a few.

This sandstone crag is surrounded by many fine boulders and there are some great top rope problems on the walls, and in the canyons. At its best, the rock is fine grained and quite compact, which makes it very kind on the hands and enables long bouldering sessions. There are also many flakes, which break easily, especially after prolonged rain, so take great care after such weather. Because of this, the bouldering at Stoney Point does take on a kind of ephemeral state; as holds break off you’ll find your recent send to be a thing of the past. This raises another issue as some “climbers” have resorted to chipping and otherwise modifying the rock – needless to say this is utterly unacceptable. There’s a lot of variety here and one can put together quite an eclectic cocktail of boulder problems for an excellent training session.

This is traditionally a bouldering and top-roping area - do not add bolts to existing routes and turn them into sport climbs - that's not what Stoney Point is about - respect the local climbing ethics.

The climbing season lasts all year long – although in the summer it can get very hot, and of course, as stated earlier, rain stops play.

There’s a lot of trash and graffiti at Stoney Point, and it’s a bloody crying shame. There’s usually a clean-up effort at least once a year and local climbers are encouraged to attend and contribute whenever possible. Stoney Point is a city park – granted mainly through the efforts of climbers.

NOTE
Do not destroy flora or fauna just to get to your boulder problem, life here is very fragile and one selfish/brutish act will spoil it for all of us. God forbid the place would be closed because of an egotistical idiot.

Websites:
http://ayola.com/stoney/

Forums & Threads:
http://www.socalbouldering.com/forum/index.php
http://boulderstoney.com/forum/
Supertopo

Videos:
Where available I have added a link to a video segment of the applicable problem - Jon McCartie is generously donating this resource.

Matt Braunstein's mesmerizing and poetic video of hard boulder problems at Turlock and B1 Boulder: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RHdh51tFLB0 .

Rob Gordon's excellent video montage of hard problems is located here.

Cole Gibson's exciting upcoming documentary:

Stoney Point: Portrait of an American Crag - extended teaser from Half Circle G Productions on Vimeo.

Cole Gibson's homage to the essential summer evening scene:

Demons, Dogs & Dynos out at the Point from Half Circle G Productions on Vimeo.

Eye on LA Video Short from the 70's:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qOlFRW0hZI

Other Resources:
Grading Systems Compared:
Not especially about Stoney Point, rather a good, humorous account of the V system written by Mr. Sherman himself.
Stoney Point News
News page with RSS Feed capability.
Supertopo Stoney Point Post lots of fun photos here.
RAIN & WET ROCK Details

Getting There

Stoney Point is located in the San Fernando Valley, just north of LA. It's located on the southeast corner of the intersection of the 118 Fwy. and Topanga Canyon Blvd. Parking is free on the northbound side of the road.

220 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Stoney Point

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
I've added "Main Wall" as an area and moved S-Crack and Main Chimney to that area. Feel free to fill in the blanks. Mar 22, 2017
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
I've noticed some new chipping as well. Someone has been carving out a pocket behind the left starting hold of Masters of Reality, which doesn't make the start any easier and will certainly shorten that hold's lifespan.

Also, a reminder to PLEASE wait a few days to climb after it rains. The big jug at the top of Hoof and Mouth completely sheared off. Given that it appears to have happened after a couple of good downpours, I have to assume it was done by someone while the rock was still damp. Nice work. Please remember to tread lightly and that this is not the gym. You can't screw on a new hold after the old one breaks. Hopefully no one got hurt busting that off. Dec 5, 2016
Adam T.
San Diego, CA
Adam T.   San Diego, CA
Susan E., thanks for your comment. It is nice to hear some of the history from someone that has such a close connection to a crag like this.

I was wondering if anyone has a name for the wall to the left of the Jesus Wall. I did a quick scramble up a corner over there that probably goes at around 5.4. It was fun and I'm sure tons of people have done it, but I don't see any routes left of Jesus Wall's 'Main Chimney' listed.

FYI all the old bees nests along the Jesus Wall and up Main Chimney are abandoned. Nov 21, 2016
Ar Py  
Who has been chipping holds down at Stoney? This is the second one I've found this fall. Bad enough the tagging is out of control again, now the climbers are mucking around too?
Nov 16, 2016
Ar Py  
Noticing a lot more tagging going on lately. Mar 31, 2016
Susan E  
I read several comments about the graffiti and trash.

I am privileged enough to live adjacent to the park and even own a small section of boulders that are shared with the City via Easement-I've been watching you guys since the mid 80's and before that, I used to ride my horse through the park to get to the trail head.

Stoney Point was not only purchased for the public to enjoy through climbing, but there are also equestrian trails and even a hitch rail. It was once the main artery that connected the ranches on the West side of Topanga to the trail head at the top of Canoga (Saugus to the Sea) . We used to cross topanga at Sta Susanna and meander through the rocks on horseback dodging climbers - used to make for some exciting rides. We all figured it out and we all managed to get along.

Coyote Pass is what the locals call the Northern part of the park that goes up to the 118 - great trails there and parts of the Old Topanga road are still there.

We've never had problems until recently...seems like more and more people are coming to the park after hours (staying until the early morning hours and CLIMBING in the dark with miner's helmets on). The park closes at sundown...it's really not a big deal if people want to stay later provided they use a little common sense. You know...no screaming, yelling, etc. Some of us need our beauty rest...lol. Be sure to move your car off Topanga before 10pm...it's a tow away zone after that time.

Recently, the gangbangers / taggers have taken up residence late at night. New frescos appear almost daily, lately.

Several of us in the community have notified the Council Office and our Senior Lead Officer (Danny Del Valle at Devonshire Division). LAPD has ramped up the helicopter visits and we have asked for a mounted patrol detail in the park from time to time at sundown.

We've seen a lot over the years...

My family and I were first responders at the Metrolink crash.

I've seen dogs killed by coyotes, snakes and africanized bees, I've seen wild fires.

I've answered more than one call for help...sometimes it's a person who's fallen and sometimes someone is being victimized out there late at night. One time, it was a group of young boys camping up there!

I've seen people fire guns off the rock on Fourth of July, I've seen them launch professional fireworks and nearly burn themselves to death (yes...they almost blew themselves up and got arrested at the hospital for starting a fire).

I once saw a dude in red sequined underpants trying to start a fire...

I've seen pornos being filmed, I've also seen high dollar outfits including Seinfeld, Doll House, The Rock's Tooth Fairy, and others out there.

Mostly, it's pretty quiet back there but there are some things that I wish I could get across to people who use the park.

If you bring a dog, keep it on a leash. We've seen more than one killed because it got a little too curious - africanized bees abound in hives that are in the ground. Also, there are snakes and of course, Coyotes. LOTS of them up in Coyote Pass. They will come down, buddy up with your dog and then take off running with your dog playfully chasing after them. That is...until the other pack members move in for the kill.

Also, if you bring your toddler, don't turn them loose out there. We've seen some unfortunate things happen - stinging nettle, etc... and of course, loose dogs that love to pounce on little people.

I really wish I could get the word out to the people who are drilling holes in the rocks that they are destroying the boulders that we all love so much. I recently saw a guy sitting on top of one of the boulders (it's one that's split into two huge pieces on the East/South side facing the back of my ranch) and he was using power tools to drill into the sandstone. I wish he could see the boulders that were quarry mined and the technique they used to break apart the rocks...they hammered spikes into the boulders and they would split apart. They are not rocks...they are just compressed sand and are so fragile.

Anyway, enough of my novel...I just wanted to throw some of this information out there and hopefully if we all work together, we can keep Stoney Point safe and sane for all... Jul 31, 2014
J CAV  
This is a weird place, I saw some hobos doing things that i will never be able to un-see...Those with weak mental fortitude, beware. Lots of trash, tons of glass, lots of graffiti... don't expect any sense of solitude.

But the Rock was good and fellow climbers were super friendly. Jul 13, 2014
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Thanks for posting Brad. Jul 11, 2014
Brad Alexander
Costa Mesa, CA
Brad Alexander   Costa Mesa, CA
Put a short video together my last visit to the Point with a buddy.
vimeo.com/96872429 May 30, 2014
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Nick there are three routes on the outside wall of Nabisco Canyon (east of the canyon itself):

Quicksilver (5.9), Mercury (10a), and Winged Messenger. (10b).

See Page 83 of Urban Rock. Jan 23, 2014
Does anyone know the name of the route on the wall between nabisco & sculpture? The bolts are on top of the east wall of nabisco canyon, about 10 feet further down from the big eye bolt above the easy crack, and the route is on the opposite side of the wall from nabisco canyon.

Thanks! Jan 5, 2014
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Nice Greg - why not post the route at Pile Ups? Oct 25, 2012
A little video from Stoney for those interested!

youtube.com/watch?v=aDxDr4n… Oct 15, 2012
Found a climbing rope earlier this morning on the bench next to boulder one neatly coiled up. Ping me if you think it's yours; for authentication purposes I would ask for some details, i.e. color and other distinguishing features Oct 7, 2012
Boots Ylectric
Chicago IL
Boots Ylectric   Chicago IL
Sitting here watching climbing vids tonight I began to miss Stoney Point and decided to look over what routes were on here and add my tick marks from a 2011 trip where I fell in love with the place. I absolutely cannot wait to be in LA again just to go to Stoney Point. One visit gave it a special place in my heart and little did I know that it was so rich in climbing history too. Great contributions Chris. I hope to be out there again soon. If you're a climber/boulderer in South Cali this is a must hit destination. Jul 11, 2012
seriously i have mad questions on the harder lines at stoney does anyone know anybody or can give me the scoop themselves? please message me! May 31, 2012
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
I'm with Rob on this and also have gray hair (I'm not implying that Rob has gray hair).

I can't see that moderate routes need to have holds glued, they've seen plenty of activity and erosion over the years and are in pretty good shape. Let's just let natural events make their mark and not try to manufacture routes - I think it's a bad precedence to set for routes on natural stone, at any grade.

I'm only aware of one beehive close to a moderate area (but I could be wrong), I've been stung by bees from that one. But really my attitude is not to mess with mother nature. The bees tend to stay in the same places over the years and if we move them from their established areas to new "out of the way" place that'll just allow more bees to move in to the newly vacated old areas.

Add quality bolt anchors - absolutely. Pink Drips in particular needs anchors, my only caveat is that they're set according to standard soft rock practices - Caltech Alpine Club has donated $50 for Pink Drips anchor replacement and I need to get off my butt and get something going - now that Spring is here it seems like a good time. Apr 17, 2012
Rob Gordon
Hollywood, CA
Rob Gordon   Hollywood, CA
Purplepineapple: I don't toprope too often, so I'm not familiar with the boy scout wall area, but it's my opinion that the bees should be kept wherever the boyscouts are climbing.

Maybe you should post under your real name if you are going to be proposing a big change like this. And only a few of the old timers actually belong to this site. Go to Boulder 1 on Tuesday and Thursday nights and ask everyone with grey hair what they think. I for one am not for glueing holds. I'm also not for messing with the bees. If you want to kill rattlesnakes, I'm okay with that. Apr 14, 2012
ryan mattock
calabasas Ca
ryan mattock   calabasas Ca
the toilet thing gets to me also. we need to come up with our constructed toilet. the city don't help out too much. Feb 26, 2012
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Junio, not for many decades to my knowledge - I brought it up at a council meeting back in 1994. I would certainly be worth considering, one issue that would need to be addressed (besides expense) would be the vandalism issue, how to prevent the bathrooms from being trashed and destroyed, or even burned to the ground.

It may be possible to find sponsorship through private sources. As mentioned previously policing is a concern, we did manage to get no parking after dark signs which have impacted the graffiti and trash, I think significantly.

As a city park Stoney Point is a work in process. Jan 26, 2012
Junio
Los Angeles, CA
Junio   Los Angeles, CA
Does anyone know the [his]story about toilets at Stoney? I am not a super-frequent climber out there but every time I do head out it strikes me that the high traffic of climbers, hikers, families picnicing on the weekends and the odd resident bum must add up to a prolific amount of human waste. Considering how many people enjoy Stoney, its beauty and historical importance it's baffling that there's nowhere to errr, go. I realize it's officially a city issue but is this something other climbers have tried to do something about [in vain] already? Jan 10, 2012
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Nice Rob, great job Callum on Fighting with Alligators!

I've posted a link above under "Videos". Jun 17, 2011
Rob Gordon
Hollywood, CA
Rob Gordon   Hollywood, CA
My buddy Callum and I shot a bunch of climbs on our Flip and iPhone this winter. Thought you guys might get a laugh or two out of it. It's not the quality filmmaking Cole's documentary will surely be. Facebook cause of music rights.

http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=623320354111&comments May 30, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
By "he" I assume you mean me Tristan.

1) There are more routes in the 3rd edition - by about 100 I think.
2) The drawings are the same, besides the map, there's a new one and it just got published in Climbing magazine.

Still if you like the 2nd Edition - thanks and have fun with it. Mar 5, 2011
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
Sport Chalet had an old copy of urban rock for $10 and it's way better than the new one! Doesn't mak any sense why he put out a new version that has less in it and worse drawings. Feb 11, 2011
Good times, very fun and easy to navigate/find routes. Don't let the talk about graffiti and bums make you think this place is anything less than classic.

Excellent bouldering for all levels of climbers. Some of it can be quite high so bring your courage. Oct 14, 2010
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
As previously mentioned under "Other Resources" above. May 22, 2010
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Patton sorry to hear about your break in, not an unusual occurrence I'm sorry to say. I park by the Stoney Point sign, the idea being that people at Boulder 1 would see stuff happening up on the street. There seems to be more broken glass up by the traffic light. Jul 7, 2009
Patton  
On June 6, 2009, Saturday, I parked my car along Topanga Canyon Road shortly after 12 p.m. When I returned around 4 p.m., the driver side window was smashed. The burglar took items from the glove compartment and the console. The traffic was heavy along Topanga Canyon Road, and many cars parked on the east side. When I reported the incident to LAPD, they appear indifferent. Jun 8, 2009
I just came across this: flashed.com/podguides/index…

Is there any ipod downloadables for Stoney Point? That would be cool. Thanks in advance for any replies. Apr 21, 2009
Jon McCartie
Edmond, OK
Jon McCartie   Edmond, OK
working on creating a collection of video beta for a number of SoCal bouldering areas. here's what I have for Stoney Point. check back often...

vimeo.com/album/5836 Jan 20, 2008
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Thank you Gigette. I'm trying to remember what my first impressions of Stoney Point were when I first arrived there in 1984; not positive I expect but I've grown to love the place.

Heck, I met all of my best friends there! Oct 27, 2007
Jonny, and I climbed at Stoney a couple of weeks ago.
Here's my take on it;

The grafitti sucked, and climbing on the lacquered spray paint on one route we did was slippery in a few spots but the rock was friendly on the hands, and the climbing was fun. The atmosphere wasn't too bad; I chatted with a couple of potential 5150s that were disheveled, yet sporting new climbing shoes meandering at the base of the routes. The homeless guys were staying low key, and had their items neatly stashed so it wasn't too much of an eye sore. There were a couple of guys that looked like they were maybe Rabbis with long beards scrambling in their religious clothing, and tennis shoes. The demeanor of the drug addicts; mellow, non-aggressive, non-confrontational. If you said "Boo!" they'd probably run home to mommy. Although I did see gang-like graffiti, I didn't see any gang activity while we were there anyway; no signs of MS-13. The only thing that frightened me was being forced to walk through a blockade of born again Christians on the trail, as they were filming an amateur religious video. They exhibited a paranoid wide-eyed look when I said, "Hey, what's up?" I guess I could be pretty scary too. Anyway, I enjoyed imagining the old school climbers back in the day cutting their teeth at these crags in a much more peaceful, beautiful, remote Stoney Point. The freeway noise was an annoyance but being from LA, it was to be expected. I loved watching, and hearing the trains go by while belaying, and climbing.

It's all good.

Stoney Point is a must visit place, and Chris Owens book was awesome.

Try it, you might like it. Oct 27, 2007
Shawn Shannon
Everett, WA
Shawn Shannon   Everett, WA
Apparently it's turned into quite the spot for drug addicts. Goofed off there a few days while I was consulting at Meggit Safety Systems. Saw multiple people every day huddled in the cracks on the top, obviously hiding what they had and looking disheveled. Bummer too as the park's got some fun bouldering and views. Oct 24, 2007
Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
Guidebooks:
Urban Rock - by Chris Owen (2004)
Southern California Bouldering - Craig Fry (1995) Jul 9, 2007
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Some of the climbs have cruxes which involve the very last move, so remember to finish the top rope routes and not just touch the 'biner and lower off - end of finger wagging. May 13, 2007

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