Elevation: 1,193 ft
GPS: 34.271, -118.604 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 690,267 total · 3,860/month
Shared By: Jordan Katz on Oct 8, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Chris Owen, jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen
Access Issue: RAIN & WET ROCK Details

Description

DO NOT CLIMB WHEN WET! WAIT 7 DAYS BEFORE CLIMBING - LET THE ROCK FULLY DRY OUT.

The local area for the climbers of Los Angeles; Stoney Point can boast to be one of the very first bouldering areas anywhere. Its historic significance should not be underestimated - many of America's luminaries cut their teeth here: Royal Robbins, Yvon Chouinard, Bob Kamps, Ron Kauk, John Long and John Bachar, to name but a few.

This sandstone crag is surrounded by many fine boulders and there are some great top rope problems on the walls, and in the canyons. At its best, the rock is fine grained and quite compact, which makes it very kind on the hands and enables long bouldering sessions. There are also many flakes, which break easily, especially after prolonged rain, so take great care after such weather. Because of this, the bouldering at Stoney Point does take on a kind of ephemeral state; as holds break off you'll find your recent send to be a thing of the past. This raises another issue as some "climbers" have resorted to chipping and otherwise modifying the rock - needless to say this is utterly unacceptable. There's a lot of variety here and one can put together quite an eclectic cocktail of boulder problems for an excellent training session.

This is traditionally a bouldering and top-roping area - do not add bolts to existing routes and turn them into sport climbs - that's not what Stoney Point is about - respect the local climbing ethics. TOP ROPE ANCHORS: don't add bolts to TR routes which do not currently have them. If you have static line, carabiners etc. you can set those routes up without adding bolts.

The climbing season lasts all year long – although in the summer it can get very hot, and of course, as stated earlier, rain stops play.

There's a lot of trash and graffiti at Stoney Point, and it's a bloody crying shame. There's usually a clean-up effort at least once a year and local climbers are encouraged to attend and contribute whenever possible. Stoney Point is a city park - granted mainly through the efforts of climbers.

NOTE

Do not destroy flora or fauna just to get to your boulder problem, life here is very fragile and one selfish/brutish act will spoil it for all of us. God forbid the place would be closed because of an egotistical idiot.

Information on recent rain at Stoney Point can be found here: https://www.wetrockpolice.com/stoneypoint.

Forums & Threads:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/971616/STONEY-POINT 

Videos:

Where available I have added a link to a video segment of the applicable problem - Jon McCartie is generously donating this resource.

Matt Braunstein's mesmerizing and poetic video of hard boulder problems at Turlock and B1 Boulder: youtube.com/watch?v=RHdh51t… .

Cole Gibson's exciting upcoming documentary:

Stoney Point: Portrait of an American Crag - extended teaser from Half Circle G Productions on Vimeo.

Cole Gibson's homage to the essential summer evening scene:

Demons, Dogs & Dynos out at the Point from Half Circle G Productions on Vimeo.

Eye on LA Video Short from the 70's:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qOlFRW0hZI

Other Resources:

Grading Systems Compared:

Not especially about Stoney Point, rather a good, humorous account of the V system written by Mr. Sherman himself.

Getting There

Stoney Point is located in the San Fernando Valley, just north of LA. It's located on the southeast corner of the intersection of the 118 Fwy. and Topanga Canyon Blvd. Parking is free on the northbound side of the road.

288 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Stoney Point

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V-easy 3
 111
The Nose
Boulder
V0 4
 206
Three Pigs
Boulder
V0 4
 72
Amphitheater (aka Todd's) Traverse
Boulder
V0 4
 74
Critter Crack
Boulder
V1 5
 80
Hoof and Mouth
Boulder
V1 5
 109
Spiral Traverse
Boulder
V1 5
 79
Slime
Boulder
V2 5+
 87
Pile Lieback
Boulder
V3 6A
 81
Leaping Lizards
Boulder
V3+ 6A+
 122
The Crack
Boulder
V5 6C
 69
Master of Reality
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 93
Left Hand
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 90
Center Route
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 65
Sculpture's Crack
TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 58
Maggie's Farm
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Nose Boulder 1
 111
V-easy 3 Boulder
Three Pigs Boulder 1
 206
V0 4 Boulder
Amphitheater (aka Todd's) T… Amphitheater
 72
V0 4 Boulder
Critter Crack Canyon Boulders
 74
V0 4 Boulder
Hoof and Mouth Turlock
 80
V1 5 Boulder
Spiral Traverse Spiral Boulder
 109
V1 5 Boulder
Slime Turlock
 79
V1 5 Boulder
Pile Lieback Pile Ups
 87
V2 5+ Boulder
Leaping Lizards Boulder 1
 81
V3 6A Boulder
The Crack B1 Boulder
 122
V3+ 6A+ Boulder
Master of Reality B1 Boulder
 69
V5 6C Boulder
Left Hand Mozart's Wall
 93
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Center Route Mozart's Wall
 90
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Sculpture's Crack Sculpture's Crack Wall
 65
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
Maggie's Farm Nabisco Canyon
 58
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
More Classic Climbs in Stoney Point »

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