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Elevation: 1,193 ft 364 m
GPS: 34.27051, -118.6037
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Shared By: Jordan Katz on Oct 8, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Chris Owen, jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Warning Access Issue: RAIN & WET ROCK DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

DO NOT CLIMB WHEN WET! WAIT 7 DAYS BEFORE CLIMBING - LET THE ROCK FULLY DRY OUT.

Wet Rock Police Website

The local area for the climbers of Los Angeles; Stoney Point can boast to be one of the very first bouldering areas anywhere. Its historic significance should not be underestimated - many of America's luminaries cut their teeth here: Royal Robbins, Yvon Chouinard, Bob Kamps, Ron Kauk, John Long and John Bachar, to name but a few.

This sandstone crag is surrounded by many fine boulders and there are some great top rope problems on the walls, and in the canyons. At its best, the rock is fine grained and quite compact, which makes it very kind on the hands and enables long bouldering sessions. There are also many flakes, which break easily, especially after prolonged rain, so take great care after such weather. Because of this, the bouldering at Stoney Point does take on a kind of ephemeral state; as holds break off you'll find your recent send to be a thing of the past. This raises another issue as some "climbers" have resorted to chipping and otherwise modifying the rock - needless to say this is utterly unacceptable. There's a lot of variety here and one can put together quite an eclectic cocktail of boulder problems for an excellent training session.

This is traditionally a bouldering and top-roping area - do not add bolts to existing routes and turn them into sport climbs - that's not what Stoney Point is about - respect the local climbing ethics. TOP ROPE ANCHORS: don't add bolts to TR routes which do not currently have them. If you have static line, carabiners etc. you can set those routes up without adding bolts.

The climbing season lasts all year long – although in the summer it can get very hot, and of course, as stated earlier, rain stops play.

There's a lot of trash and graffiti at Stoney Point, and it's a bloody crying shame. There's usually a clean-up effort at least once a year and local climbers are encouraged to attend and contribute whenever possible. Stoney Point is a city park - granted mainly through the efforts of climbers.

NOTE

Do not destroy flora or fauna just to get to your boulder problem, life here is very fragile and one selfish/brutish act will spoil it for all of us. God forbid the place would be closed because of an egotistical idiot.

Information on recent rain at Stoney Point can be found here: https://www.wetrockpolice.com/stoneypoint.

Forums & Threads:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/971616/STONEY-POINT 

Videos:

Where available I have added a link to a video segment of the applicable problem - Jon McCartie is generously donating this resource.

Matt Braunstein's mesmerizing and poetic video of hard boulder problems at Turlock and B1 Boulder: youtube.com/watch?v=RHdh51t… .

Cole Gibson's exciting upcoming documentary:

Stoney Point: Portrait of an American Crag - extended teaser from Half Circle G Productions on Vimeo.

Cole Gibson's homage to the essential summer evening scene:

Demons, Dogs & Dynos out at the Point from Half Circle G Productions on Vimeo.

Eye on LA Video Short from the 70's:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qOlFRW0hZI

Other Resources:

Grading Systems Compared:

Not especially about Stoney Point, rather a good, humorous account of the V system written by Mr. Sherman himself.

Getting There Suggest change

Stoney Point is located in the San Fernando Valley, just north of LA. It's located on the southeast corner of the intersection of the 118 Fwy. and Topanga Canyon Blvd. Parking is free on the northbound side of the road.

306 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Stoney Point

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 48
Maggie's Traverse
Boulder
V1 5
 141
Spiral Traverse
Boulder
V2-3 5+
 42
Yabo Roof
Boulder
V3 6A
 55
Kodas' Corner
Boulder
V3 6A
 24
Sculpture's Crack Traverse
Boulder
V3 6A
 121
Leaping Lizards
Boulder
V3-4 6A+
 153
The Crack
Boulder
V4-5 6B+
 20
Crystal Ball Mantel
Boulder
V5 6C
 72
Master of Reality
Boulder
V5 6C
 18
Hot Tuna
Boulder
V6 7A
 21
Power Glide
Boulder
V7 7A+ R
 4
Johnson Problem
Boulder
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 68
The Nutcracker
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 69
Sculpture's Crack
TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 67
Maggie's Farm
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Maggie's Traverse Nabisco Canyon
 48
V1 5 Boulder
Spiral Traverse Spiral Boulder
 141
V1 5 Boulder
Yabo Roof Turlock
 42
V2-3 5+ Boulder
Kodas' Corner Canyon Boulders
 55
V3 6A Boulder
Sculpture's Crack Traverse Sculpture's Crack Wall
 24
V3 6A Boulder
Leaping Lizards Boulder 1
 121
V3 6A Boulder
The Crack B1 Boulder
 153
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
Crystal Ball Mantel Turlock
 20
V4-5 6B+ Boulder
Master of Reality B1 Boulder
 72
V5 6C Boulder
Hot Tuna Hot Tuna Buttress
 18
V5 6C Boulder
Power Glide Eat Out More Often (a…
 21
V6 7A Boulder
Johnson Problem Split Rock
 4
V7 7A+ R Boulder
The Nutcracker Nutcracker Buttress
 68
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
Sculpture's Crack Sculpture's Crack Wall
 69
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
Maggie's Farm Nabisco Canyon
 67
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
More Classic Climbs in Stoney Point »

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