PRINT: Rock Climb Sculpture's Crack, Los Angeles Basin

Sculpture's Crack

5.10c, TR, 40 ft (12 m),

Avg: 3.4 from 72 votes
FA: unknown
California > Los Angeles Basin > Stoney Point > Sculpture's Crack Wall

Access Issue: RAIN & WET ROCK Details

Stoney Point sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many gyms in the area if you need a fix!

Description

Pin-scarred crack leads ominously to the long and strenuous lieback, although jamming could be employed, it's a race against time to the final (and cruxy) squirm over the top through the slot on the right.

Location

Sculture's Crack Wall - see

Protection

Top rope, bolts on top - inspect before use.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Took me a few weekends, but I finally sent Sculptures Crack. My favorite TR at Stoney.

Julie at the mid-point

Leading Sculptures Crack

Current State of fixed anchors. The hangers are loose on the bolts, but they seem solid, extra big.

Sculpture's Crack

Erik Chimpo Anderson topping out after a beautiful TR redpoint on a beautiful day at Sculptures (3/16/10).

Thi-Ly Hayes sends Sculpture's Crack, 1991. See any changes in the crack?

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dan McHale

I top roped this in 1970

Dec 4, 2012

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake

5.10c

Looking good Dan - thanks for posting. May 21, 2015

dnaiscool

Dan's 1970 free ascent has to be one of the earliest for this route. In the late 1960's and early 1970's both Sculpture's and Sand Blast were still being aid climbed with regular frequency. That's how I did them at the time. I think Robbins or Tom Higgins may have done the FFA of these, but that Sand Blast may have been a Bachar tick from the mid-70's. Kudos for the 1970 free ascent, which was hard core for the time!! Note also that there is no chalk to be seen, and that is because use of chalk in climbing was still in its infancy in 1970. Very few of us were using it at all back then, but slowly it made its way to the boulders out front where climbers would each bring a cube of the stuff to rub it on their fingers. Then you'd just leave the cube on the ground while you did a problem, and the real bummer came when someone stepped on your cube. Eventually we started putting it in tiny "Gerry" stuff sacks, and you'd clip this to your swami by the loop that cinched it closed, which did not work very well, because ever time you dipped, it would close down around your wrists. The invention of the modern chalkbag really helped...but just remember kids...it weren't always that way... Jul 14, 2015

Sean
Oak Park, CA

no more than 40 ft tall, in case others also use shorter ropes like i do Aug 10, 2016