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Routes in Frog Prince

Blind Man's Bluff S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Children of the Mojave S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dairy Queen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dark Passage S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Driving Down Highway 40 In My Big Ol' Pickup Truck S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Freddie Prince Jr S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frog Prince (a.k.a. Babies) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gollum S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raven, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Queen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Through the Looking Glass S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown FP 1 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown FP 2 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Knight S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
White Queen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Worrier or the Warrior, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
You Gotta Kiss a Lot of Frogs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Matt Samet, Lee Sheftel, 1992
Page Views: 1,263 total, 10/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Oct 31, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Thompson Canyon Details

Description

This was the second route up the main overhang of the Frog Prince Buttress, but has more or less been lost to history as a variation, as Through the Looking Glass and White Queen were added. (It's incorrectly listed as a variation to White Queen in Dennis Jackson's guidebook.)

Begin about 10 feet right of Babies (aka Frog Prince) up on the ledge. Boulder past the first two bolts on flatter pockets, then big moves to more incut lips, trending right along the arc of the overhang. Where Through the Looking Glass goes straight up, you move right again to the lip crux of White Queen.

The Socorro Boys (Dylan and Jake) said we were on crack for climbing the "Mud Wall" -- we probably were, but it turned into a good route once it cleaned up. I've heard rumors of pockets at the lip crux being enhanced since the FA -- not sure, don't care, whatever.

Location

Center of the south-facing, overhanging central wall on the Frog Prince Buttress.

Protection

6 or 7 draws, and two draws for the anchors.

Photos

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Chipping or not this is the better more continuos of the two satandard Queen lines. There are actually others as well starting further left on Babie or even Gollum, one of which is named Dairy Queen and at this point they probably are really 5.13+. Aug 15, 2008
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
More Alf trivia; According to Alf, Goliath wouldn't go until it was chipped as well. Nov 1, 2007
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
That's sort of what I was thinking. Did he say it as an accusation, or an admission? But he was packing heat, so I didn't press the issue. Nov 1, 2007
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
I heard the same rumor of post-FA chipping, but I heard it from Alf, so take it with a grain of salt. Nov 1, 2007