Type: Sport, 45 ft (14 m)
FA: Matt Samet, Lee Sheftel, 1992
Page Views: 2,217 total · 11/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Oct 31, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

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Description Suggest change

This was the second route up the main overhang of the Frog Prince Buttress, but has more or less been lost to history as a variation, as Through the Looking Glass and White Queen were added. (It's incorrectly listed as a variation to White Queen in Dennis Jackson's guidebook.)

Begin about 10 feet right of Babies (aka Frog Prince) up on the ledge. Boulder past the first two bolts on flatter pockets, then big moves to more incut lips, trending right along the arc of the overhang. Where Through the Looking Glass goes straight up, you move right again to the lip crux of White Queen.

The Socorro Boys (Dylan and Jake) said we were on crack for climbing the "Mud Wall" -- we probably were, but it turned into a good route once it cleaned up. I've heard rumors of pockets at the lip crux being enhanced since the FA -- not sure, don't care, whatever.

Location Suggest change

Center of the south-facing, overhanging central wall on the Frog Prince Buttress.

Protection Suggest change

6 or 7 draws, and two draws for the anchors.