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Routes in Frog Prince

Blind Man's Bluff S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Children of the Mojave S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dairy Queen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dark Passage S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Driving Down Highway 40 In My Big Ol' Pickup Truck S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Freddie Prince Jr S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frog Prince (a.k.a. Babies) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gollum S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raven, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Queen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Through the Looking Glass S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown FP 1 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown FP 2 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Knight S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
White Queen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Worrier or the Warrior, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
You Gotta Kiss a Lot of Frogs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport
FA: Brian Pletta (?), Lance Hadfield, 1996
Page Views: 88 total, 1/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Nov 6, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Thompson Canyon Details

Description

Though originally rated .11c, this route feels more difficult than any other 5.11c route at Enchanted Tower. Probably initially went at the above grade but due to the soft friable rock at the beginning of the route, all the pockets seem to have been eroded to feel like two finger slopers. After pulling the moves on the crux at the bottom, the grade eases of considerably once you hit the varnish covered stone higher on the route. If your flamed nearing the top, you can hit the giant hole to the left and gain an excellent knee bar and almost a no hands rest! Fun move to make even if you are not flamed.

May wish to stick clip the second bolt.

Location

This route is one route to the right of Freddy Frog Prince Jr, on the west side of the Frog Prince formation. Around the corner and left of Gollum.

Protection

8 bolts to two bolt anchor.

Photos

foobarbecue
  5.11a/b
foobarbecue  
  5.11a/b
Love how this gets steadily easier as you ascend. Built-in pump compensation. This climb has more in common with your average Box Canyon 11 than Tower 11s, and I think it would be 11a or b if it were at box. Nothing broke, felt clean. Aug 6, 2014
jbert
 
jbert  
 
The route is a bit dirty as it doesn't get climbed a lot, but I think it is a stellar climb and one of my favorite 11's at the tower for sure. The technical start on slopey dishes offers a nice change from the majority of the climbs in the area, and the steep headwall provides decently long, sustained climbing to the anchors. I have not had any holds break, though the feet can skate a bit on grit through the lower section, but not enough to make me hate the climb. I would give it four stars if it was a bit cleaner, so go do it! Jul 29, 2013
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
When I did this I believe there were about 2 or 3 hold on the entire route that didn't break in some way. Worst rock I have ever climbed on at the Tower, or anywhere for that matter. Jan 14, 2011
Gary Parker
  5.11d
Gary Parker  
  5.11d
I liked this route because it was a different style for the Tower. Slopey for sure. May 23, 2008
Hey Mono, For what it's worth The Raven could be 5.11d. Also Guy was not in favor of the "big" down rating of routes at ET. I just felt that some were a little soft and down rated them. Most routes at the tower are not technically hard but take endurance. I would rather climb at an area where routes are not known as soft any way. Of course I could be wrong about the grade of the Raven. People can let us know with their input here. I don't think that a letter here or there really matters except to those trying to get up their first one. It is not like someone is going to die getting on one of these climbs. The Raven probably gets climbed a lot more now too. Thanks for your regular input here. Eric Rhicard Nov 7, 2007
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
5.11d
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
5.11d
FWIW, I always thought this was 11d. It was listed in some online guides (such as this one) at 11d before the big down-rate in Agee/Richard guide. Nov 7, 2007