Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: John Duran, 1990
Page Views: 272 total · 2/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 10, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details

Description

This is a fun route on great rock. If its length were reasonable, the route would be 4 stars. The hardest moves are stepping off the ledge at the base, so have a stick clip or a spotter. This route heads up and slightly right, on steadily improving holds. With no real rests until the anchor, this is a typical ET mad-dash for the chains.

Location

This is the second route from the left on the 'super steep' section of the Frog Prince wall. Its also the 3rd route from the left of the overhanging dihedral.

Protection

Two bolts with hangers to start then three bolts with fixed chain draws to the anchor. Stick clip recommended.

Photos

jbak .
tucson,az
 
jbak .   tucson,az
 
It's hard for me to give three stars to a 29 foot route, but they are deserved in this case. Jan 8, 2007
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
D. Jackson's Rock Climbing NM guide shows this route terminating at the anchors for Gollum, but I believe this is incorrect (certainly a possibility though). Instead, continue past three more fixed draws angling up and right. Jul 12, 2009
Pat Mac
Salt Lake City
  5.12a
Pat Mac   Salt Lake City
  5.12a
Rather short. Mar 9, 2010
Andrew B. Ellis
Ruidoso, NM
  5.12a
Andrew B. Ellis   Ruidoso, NM
  5.12a
I don't know why you would short-change this route. Actual length is just over 40 feet of climbing when you take into account the angle of it. Fantastic movement on bomber rock. I found the difficulty rather continuous with three cruxy spots. Kicked my ass the first time around, but so excited to come back and work it. Probably deserves just shy of 4 stars, and would likely get them if it were anywhere else in NM but the tower. May 6, 2018