Avg: 0.5 from 11 votes
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft (21 m)|
|Page Views:||591 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Jason Halladay on Jul 21, 2014|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and don't attempt to drive through the private ranch.
If you're a connoisseur of choss and fine position, this one's for you. The much-less-than-perfect rock on this line is just barely counter-balanced by the impressive position on a blunt arête. Gym-weaned sport climbers (or most climbers, in fact) will not enjoy the route at all until, if ever, it cleans up but if you like a little adventure in your sport climbing and enjoy a bit more of a mental battle, you're more likely to enjoy it. Find out if you're a worrier or a warrior [insert overly-dramatic music here.]
Consider stick-clipping the first bolt and pull bouldery moves on great, sharp rock at the undercut start. Enjoy the rock quality here because it only gets worse from here on up.
Delicately mantle up onto the big ledge and move up and right to get established on the rounded prow. Clip the tightly-bolted first three bolts (nobody likes a ledge fall!) and follow incredibly flaky rock and pockets to the steep finish.
I initially thought there's good rock underneath but it seems that may not be the case-- it may never clean up. But the bolts are there now so...
It's not dangerous--the closely-spaced bolts are in solid rock and the big chunks are gone--but for sure you'll pull some stuff off. Remember, you didn't have to climb it--that was your choice.