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The Worrier or The Warrior
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 0.5 from 13
votes
Routes in Frog Prince
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Aretha S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Blind Man's Bluff S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bovary S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Children of the Mojave S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dairy Queen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Dark Passage S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dolores S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Driving Down Highway 40 In My Big Ol' Pickup Truck S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Freddie Prince Jr S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Frog Prince (a.k.a. Babies) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gollum S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mulva S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Raven, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Red Queen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Through the Looking Glass S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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White Knight S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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White Queen S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Worrier or The Warrior, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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You Gotta Kiss a Lot of Frogs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 34.23008, -107.91611 |
| FA: | Jason Halladay |
| Page Views: | 1,023 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Jul 21, 2014 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Access Issue: Thompson Canyon
Details
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and please do not attempt to drive through the private ranch.
Description
If you're a connoisseur of choss and fine position, this one's for you. The much-less-than-perfect rock on this line is just barely counter-balanced by the impressive position on a blunt arête. Gym-weaned sport climbers (or most climbers, in fact) will not enjoy the route at all until, if ever, it cleans up but if you like a little adventure in your sport climbing and enjoy a bit more of a mental battle, you're more likely to enjoy it. Find out if you're a worrier or a warrior [insert overly-dramatic music here.]
Consider stick-clipping the first bolt and pull bouldery moves on great, sharp rock at the undercut start. Enjoy the rock quality here because it only gets worse from here on up.
Delicately mantle up onto the big ledge and move up and right to get established on the rounded prow. Clip the tightly-bolted first three bolts (nobody likes a ledge fall!) and follow incredibly flaky rock and pockets to the steep finish.
I initially thought there's good rock underneath but it seems that may not be the case-- it may never clean up. But the bolts are there now so...
It's not dangerous--the closely-spaced bolts are in solid rock and the big chunks are gone--but for sure you'll pull some stuff off. Remember, you didn't have to climb it--that was your choice.
4 Comments