Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Jason Halladay
Page Views: 447 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Jul 21, 2014
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details
Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico State Requirements Details

Description

If you're a connoisseur of choss and fine position, this one's for you. The much-less-than-perfect rock on this line is somewhat counter-balanced by the impressive position on a blunt arête. Gym-weaned sport climbers will not enjoy the route at all until, if ever, it cleans up but if you like a little adventure in your sport climbing and enjoy a bit more of a mental battle, you're more likely to enjoy it. Find out if you're a worrier or a warrior [insert overly-dramatic music here.]

Consider stick-clipping the first bolt and pull bouldery moves on great, sharp rock at the undercut start. Enjoy the rock quality here because it only gets worse from here on up.

Delicately mantle up onto the big ledge and move up and right to get established on the rounded prow. Clip the tightly-bolted first three bolts (nobody likes a ledge fall!) and follow super flaky rock and pockets to the steep finish.

I initially thought there's good rock underneath but it seems that may not be the case-- it may never clean up. But the bolts are there now so...
It's not dangerous--the bolts are in solid rock and the big chunks are gone--but for sure you'll pull some stuff off. Remember, you didn't have to climb it--that was your choice.

Location

The first route on the left as you walk towards the Birth Canal area on the east side of the Frog Prince area.

Protection

10 bolts to chains with biners. Belayers may consider a helmet as the route is constantly exfoliating. But after a five-hour cleaning session, the big dangers have been removed. Also, the undercut start keeps the belayer well-protected from flaky bits that will fall off.

Photos