Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Frog Prince

Blind Man's Bluff S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Children of the Mojave S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dairy Queen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dark Passage S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Driving Down Highway 40 In My Big Ol' Pickup Truck S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Freddie Prince Jr S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frog Prince (a.k.a. Babies) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gollum S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raven, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Queen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Through the Looking Glass S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown FP 1 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown FP 2 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Knight S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
White Queen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Worrier or the Warrior, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
You Gotta Kiss a Lot of Frogs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jason Halladay
Page Views: 128 total, 3/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Jul 21, 2014
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Thompson Canyon Details

Description

The much-less-than-perfect rock on this line is somewhat counter-balanced by the impressive position on a blunt arĂȘte. Pure sport climbers will not enjoy the route until it cleans up quite a bit more (if ever!) but if you like a little adventure in your sport climbing and enjoy a bit more of a mental battle, you're more likely to enjoy it. Find out if you're a worrier or warrior [insert overly-dramatic music here.]

Consider stick-clipping the first bolt and pull bouldery moves on great, sharp rock at the undercut start. Enjoy the rock quality here because it only gets worse from here on up.

Delicately mantle up onto the big ledge and move up and right to get established on the rounded prow. Clip the tightly-bolted first three bolts (nobody likes a ledge fall!) and follow flaky rock and pockets to the steep finish.

There's good rock underneath, I think. Or it may never clean up. Probably the latter.

Location

The first route on the left as you walk towards the cavern on the east side of the Frog Prince area.

Protection

10 bolts to chains with biners. Belayers may consider a helmet as the route is constantly exfoliating. But after a five-hour cleaning session, the big dangers have been removed. Also, the undercut start keeps the belayer well-protected from flaky bits that will fall off.

Photos

skelldify
  5.10+
skelldify  
  5.10+
This route is aesthetic, tall, sustained, has great movement, and a lot of loose/flaky rock! My partner and I were both constantly raining down crumbs and up to golfball-sized rocks. We also each pulled off a good softball plus sized chunk. Seems to be the worst right near the top. Great route otherwise! May 21, 2016
Josh Tokioka
Cedar City, UT
Josh Tokioka   Cedar City, UT
This route was so flaky and so much chauce. Literally every move you make, something breaks off. Even the pockets that are there are filled with grit and pebbles, making them not so bomber. I definitely would not climb this again Jan 8, 2015