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Routes in Frog Prince

Blind Man's Bluff S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Children of the Mojave S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dairy Queen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dark Passage S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Driving Down Highway 40 In My Big Ol' Pickup Truck S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Freddie Prince Jr S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frog Prince (a.k.a. Babies) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gollum S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raven, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Queen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Through the Looking Glass S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown FP 1 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown FP 2 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Knight S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
White Queen S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Worrier or the Warrior, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
You Gotta Kiss a Lot of Frogs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 149 total · 1/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Jun 5, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Stephen Chojnowski

You & This Route

37 Opinions

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Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Short but sweet. A stick clip is helpful as the first bolt is quite a distance off the deck. Reach up in the overhang for your first hold and campus (or you can use your feet, seen it done different ways) the first few moves. Continue up strenuous moves to the anchors.

Also a V6 bouldering start variation, according to the guidebook.

Location [Suggest Change]

The steeply overhanging route on the front side, left of the densely gridded wall.

Protection [Suggest Change]

3 bolts to anchors.


This is a ten foot long boulder problem that is bolted and is one of the last climbs to do in this area. Sep 14, 2008
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
Let's be fair here. Gollum, while perhaps not the same caliber as some of the other more difficult routes on Frog Prince (can't comment, haven't been on them), is not a "10 foot boulder problem." For those not yet able to get on the neighboring 12s and 13s, this 30 foot boulder problem is pumpy and quite fun. Cruxy off the deck and pumpy to the anchors, it's a good route for the mid 5.11 grade. Jul 12, 2009
Jason, you gave it three stars. If I had driven over there from Tucson or down from Colorado for a long weekend and jumped on that because I saw you gave it 3 stars I would feel cheated. Not trying to be a dick just trying to put the star thing in perspective. Relative to other 3 star routes at the tower I don't think it deserves them. It is a ten foot problem with 20 feet of hanging on to the anchors that is so much easier than the start. I would not do it until I had done almost every other route in the area, which is when I did that climb. Took longer to write this than do the route. Ha Ha. Jul 15, 2009
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
Eric, Compared to routes like Grendel, Golden Stairs, and a whole host of other 5.11s on other walls, you're 100% correct that Gollum isn't as good. And certainly, I would feel cheated too if that were the only route that I had gotten on, but on Frog Prince, at the mid 11 grade, I think Gollum is a very fun route and a natural stepping stone for those progressing onto the more difficult Frog Prince routes. Put differently, I would have also felt cheated had I not gotten on the route based on the rating you gave it (shows why it's nice to see individual ratings for routes and not just the consensus grade). And you must be a stronger climber than me (or a slower typist) because I think by this time I was just getting to the 3rd bolt! =) Happy climbing! Jul 16, 2009
Eddie Brown
Tempe, Arizona
Eddie Brown   Tempe, Arizona
This is one of my favorite routes at the tower! I personally think it goes around V1 or maybe 11b. It's a long boulder problem with fun movement.

I've heard so many negative comments about the problem and don't understand why! But then again I'm more of a boulderer than a sport climber so I'm more keen on that type of movement! Aug 31, 2009
Why, on such a short route, is that obnoxious pile of cheater stones necessary. It seems to grow every time I go there. Perhaps ,by next year, you will be able to clip the anchors from the summit. As it is you can completely bypass the most difficult movement on the climb by starting on the pile, down grading the thing to 10+. Don't cheat yourself. Stick clip the 1st bolt if you need to and then start from the ground. Dec 10, 2009
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
BenCliming - I have seen short climbers that can't even reach the first hold! Perhaps I'm forgeting something but I remember it being pretty reachy from the ground. Dec 18, 2009
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
Yeah, it's definitely reachy. I don't think there was a cheater stone when I did it, but I know for sure that my beta involved a "jump-start" move. Dec 19, 2009
I'm 5'6" and I have no trouble starting from the ground. I can't reach the jugs that are reachable from the top of the "cheater" stones (it seems that most everyone starts from there anymore) but like I said, this skips the crux of the climb. It's only a little bit harder starting from your feet so, especially considering the short length of this bolted boulder problem, I would think people might want to start from the ground. But hey, it's a free country and there are no rules that say you have to, I just think the climb is 5.10 from there. I'm glad to have had the opportunity to split that hair. ;^) Dec 23, 2009
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
It's even harder if you start sitting at the back of the wall. I think we are all skipping the crux here guys :-) Dec 24, 2009
Jilian Adel Wereb
Tucson, AZ
Jilian Adel Wereb   Tucson, AZ
I personally think this is a great little route. Yes it is short but man is it fun. If you are breaking into this level of climbing or even style of climbing I would recommend starting at the higher start jugs that can be reached by that pile of death rocks someone has stacked. If you can stick clip, DO THE BOTTOM!(first 3/4 of the route is the best part) Also, just because you can campus it try it again keeping your feet on, it makes for some REALLY fantastic movement. Yes bouldery, not what the area is know for but if you like this kind of movement jump on it. It is short so won't take too much of your time away from those other big beautiful routes all around you. Oct 6, 2014

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