Children of the Mojave
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | Anchors installed in mid-2000s by Rob Edwards. Lead-protection bolts installed by Jason Halladay in 2014. |
Page Views: | 911 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Jul 6, 2014 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
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The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and don't attempt to drive through the private ranch.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and don't attempt to drive through the private ranch.
Description
Driving through the [now-defunct] Scientology Mojave Academy at night, en route to the Tower via the long route, always had us expecting to see children creepin' around the road a la Stephen King's Children of the Corn.
Start up just left of the obvious black streak to the first bolt on top of the small bulge. Cruise of great pockets to the roof above. Crank crux moves up and right over the bulge to the anchors.
Rob Edwards had installed the anchors for TRing in the mid-2000s. He gave me the go-ahead to install lead protection bolts to make for a good morning shade 5.9 warm-up route.
Start up just left of the obvious black streak to the first bolt on top of the small bulge. Cruise of great pockets to the roof above. Crank crux moves up and right over the bulge to the anchors.
Rob Edwards had installed the anchors for TRing in the mid-2000s. He gave me the go-ahead to install lead protection bolts to make for a good morning shade 5.9 warm-up route.
Location
Left (north) side of Frog Prince, 15 feet up the gully from Blind Man's Bluff in the obvious black streak. Bolts are painted brown and well-camouflaged.
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