Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 3 pitches
FA: Herb Laeger, Mike Goft, John Markwell
Page Views: 12,954 total · 75/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Oct 10, 2007
Admins: Andy Weinmann

You & This Route

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Superb and well-protected route. Usually done in three pitches but, with a 60m rope, can be done in one long pitch, if you don't mind long slings for pro and tough communication with the belayer. First two pitches make for an excellent 5.8.

P1: Start in a left-facing corner just to the left of Roy Gap Chimney. Go up 40 feet (5.7) and step left onto the ledge under a crack in the corner.
P1 variation: Start in a left facing corner 10 feet left of the original start. Climb towards the bulge and traverse right onto the ledge under Pitch 2.

P2: Go up the crack towards the roof. Climb the roof (#4 BD cam) and continue on awesome 5.8 hand jams and liebacks to a stance under a large roof with a rusty piton. It is possible to descent from here by traversing 20 feet right onto a large ledge with rap anchors on Roy Gap Chimney.

P3: Climb up and traverse left under the roof (5.9). Continue diagonally up and right towards rap anchors. A pair of 60m ropes reaches the ground.


Hike up the hill on the west side of the Southern Pillar towards the large corner with Roy Gap Chimney. Locate the hand crack capped with a roof in the left facing corner to the left of the Chimney. This is the route.


Small to medium nuts and cams. Doubles on #.75 - #2 BD cams. #4 BD cam is useful at the roof on Pitch 2.