Type: Trad, 220 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,335 total · 24/month
Shared By: Christian Mason on Jul 19, 2007 with updates from Brian Malone
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


62 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start at the slab leading to the obvious chimney West (climbers right) of the fin that forms Gephart-Dufty (the northernmost part of the pillar).

Climb it to the obvious chimney. Cold shuts after about 30 feet of squeeze chimney. Belay here or continue up the chimney to the another set of shuts (about 8 feet above you after you step right out of the chimney).

The third pitch trends up and left for about 50 feet from here, not really worth doing.

Either rap into the chimney or make one double rope rap outside it to the ground.

Protection

PG pro. Fixed anchors, no fixed gear that I recall.

Photos

Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.6
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.6
An interesting route regardless of your ability level. Seems to be the scene of the occasional epic and/or rockfall. The first pitch might not be the best choice for a budding 5.6 leader. Jun 26, 2008
David Carey
Morrison, CO
  5.7
David Carey   Morrison, CO
  5.7
awesome climb, my first multipitch trad lead and a good choice. I felt it might have been harder than a 5.6, maybe 5.7, but coulda been my lack of chimney skills. Jun 12, 2011
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.6
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.6
A good variation is to do "Roy Gap Punishment". Climb the first pitch of Climbin' Punishment until you're pretty much above the chimney then traverse over and up to the shuts on Roy Gap Chimneys. Goes at about 5.7.

Also, the best descent from the top of P2 (by the 'fridge block) is off to climber's right, especially if someone else is coming up the route and you only have one rope. Rap down to the set of rap rings atop Electric Chair/Judgment Seat and from there to the ground. Aug 1, 2011