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Routes in Southern Pillar

Ambush T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Appendicitis T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
BEVOS T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Back Scratcher T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bizarre Grandiose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Block Party T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Climbin' Punishment T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Craving fo Pink T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Daytripper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disco Death March T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electric Chair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fear of Flying T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free Ballin' T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Gebhardt-Duffy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Great Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Hidden Gem T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Initiation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Judgement Seat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lemur, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Mrs. Robinson T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Point Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quit Dogging the Scene T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rhododendron Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Right Tope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rolling Rock T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roy Gap Chimney's T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slipstream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Southern Thriller S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stoney's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Up Yours S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Victim, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Window on the West T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,013 total, 24/month
Shared By: Christian Mason on Jul 19, 2007 with updates
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

Start at the slab leading to the obvious chimney West (climbers right) of the fin that forms Gephart-Dufty (the northernmost part of the pillar).

Climb it to the obvious chimney. Cold shuts after about 30 feet of squeeze chimney. Belay here or continue up the chimney to the another set of shuts (about 8 feet above you after you step right out of the chimney).

The third pitch trends up and left for about 50 feet from here, not really worth doing.

Either rap into the chimney or make one double rope rap outside it to the ground.

Protection

PG pro. Fixed anchors, no fixed gear that I recall.

Photos

Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.6
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.6
A good variation is to do "Roy Gap Punishment". Climb the first pitch of Climbin' Punishment until you're pretty much above the chimney then traverse over and up to the shuts on Roy Gap Chimneys. Goes at about 5.7.

Also, the best descent from the top of P2 (by the 'fridge block) is off to climber's right, especially if someone else is coming up the route and you only have one rope. Rap down to the set of rap rings atop Electric Chair/Judgment Seat and from there to the ground. Aug 1, 2011
Dave Carey
Morrison, CO
  5.7
Dave Carey   Morrison, CO
  5.7
awesome climb, my first multipitch trad lead and a good choice. I felt it might have been harder than a 5.6, maybe 5.7, but coulda been my lack of chimney skills. Jun 12, 2011
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.6
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.6
An interesting route regardless of your ability level. Seems to be the scene of the occasional epic and/or rockfall. The first pitch might not be the best choice for a budding 5.6 leader. Jun 26, 2008