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Routes in Southern Pillar

Ambush T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Appendicitis T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
BEVOS T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Back Scratcher T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bizarre Grandiose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Block Party T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Climbin' Punishment T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Craving fo Pink T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Daytripper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disco Death March T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electric Chair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fear of Flying T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free Ballin' T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Gebhardt-Duffy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Great Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Hidden Gem T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Initiation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Judgement Seat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lemur, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Mrs. Robinson T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Point Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quit Dogging the Scene T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rhododendron Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Right Tope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rolling Rock T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roy Gap Chimney's T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slipstream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Southern Thriller S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stoney's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Up Yours S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Victim, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Window on the West T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Ed Begoon, Darell Hensley, 1986
Page Views: 864 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 1, 2008
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Start by stemming in the cave until you can move on to the left wall, following an undercling flake to reach a stance. Follow the corner and arete to the top, passing 3 bolts on the face to the right of the arete. Aim for the tree above and right of the face with the bolts. This route has good protection and interesting moves.

Location

Find the small cave in the corner to the left of Ambush and Block Party.

Protection

3 bolts, and a standard Seneca rack. Tree with slings and rings at top.

Photos

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This is full meal deal the entire way. Pulling the initial flake isn't the bad.

The route stays on you through the first half of the route, pulling pumpy moves until you reach the transition ledge.

Steel yourself for some sporty crimps.

All in all a great line with lots of variety. Apr 24, 2016
Frogmen83
  5.9 PG13
Frogmen83  
  5.9 PG13
Sketchy pro placement behind a flake(could pull) while stemming right off the ground. After you get around the flake the gear and bolts are good. I remember this route being pumpy. Go all the way to the anchors past the tree. Oct 20, 2014
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.9
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.9
Classic Begoon line. Great, sustained hard moves. After you pull out of the slot cave to the left it's harder if you go straight up and slightly right then if you stay more left. The big ledge is a nice rest before the bolts, but it does not let up in the bolted section.

Ends at a two-bolt anchor. Justin Day put up the line that continues up from this anchor, though it's a bit of a squeeze job. Oct 19, 2012