Gebhardt-Dufty

Terrific exposure and several steep sections make this an exciting and fairly stout 5.7. Rope drag is ridiculously bad, owing to several horizontal sections--there doesn't seem to be any way around this--and there is a considerable amount of loose rock. Also, we weren't really sure where to go after pitch four, when you reach the top of the main column, so we rapped off of fixed rings found on the side of the formation (which was kind of sketchy).

On p5 beta: Once at the tree with tat/rings on it, face climbers left towards the large buttress that is separate from the feature you just climbed (see photos). Climb to the obvious ledge about 8' off the grass. traverse climbers left on ledge to 10' right of the arete and into a vertical broken crack system. there was a small wire stuck at the bottom of the traverse. Climb this system to the top where there are 2 glue ins (no rings). if you top out the feature, you can scramble back down to the tree with tat and begin your descent.

There are three ways to descend.  

1.  Locate the tree with rap slings/ring just up from where you top out the buttress.  Rappel from this to the west (climber's right) down to the ledge and rap rings at the top of Climbin' Punishment's 3rd pitch and from there to the anchors on Roy Gap Chimney's 1st pitch.

2. Rap to the east (climber's left) down into the gully (the wall of Craving for Pink/Hidden Gem will be on your right).  Locate a square-cut block and a two-bolt anchor.  If you have a 60m rope, this will require just a bit a easy scrambling to reach.  From the anchor, rap down into The Great Chimney, over the Backscratcher area, to another two-bolt anchor.  Rap from there down the chimney to the ground.

3. Walkoff to the south and east.  You'll have to scramble up a bit and then east (climber's left) to reach a faint trail.  Drop down some easy ledges on the east side, keeping an eye out for a short wall studded with old pitons.  Continue moving south and down the easy ledges to reach the slope of the hill.  Cut across and down the slope (careful of loose rock under the leaves and debris), going through a small gully.  On the far side of the gully continue moving across at an angle and reach an old logging road.  Follow this all the way back down the hill to Roy Gap Run, cross that and you're at Roy Gap Road.

Begins at the bottom of the prominent and largest fin on the Southern Pillar. It's the closest bit of the formation to Roy Gap Road.

Full rack. Rings at the top of the first pitch and some slings left around boulders after two and three. Big gear is helpful, but probably not necessary.