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Routes in The Steep

Ashes S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blue Note S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bunkweed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chossy Offwidth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Delt Melt S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dr. Evil S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fat Bastard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Glenn's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Goldmember S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Green Monster/George of the Jungle Var. S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Johnny Rotten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mini-me S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Not known at this time S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slappin the Johnson S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spiderman S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Stepping Into Blue Sky S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stone Free S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ten Years After S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tony's Route AKA Cres-sent S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Two Birds Too Stoned S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: JBaker, JShiefman, Dylan Cooper, Oct 2007
Page Views: 2,010 total, 16/month
Shared By: jbak on Oct 8, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

Steep, powerful, sustained...but good rests where ya need 'em. Overhangs 20+ feet.

21st century start with an old-school finish. The best sequence is not necessarily easy to find. Perhaps a touch of sandbag at 12a, I'm not sure.

An old Glenn Todd project that he let sit idle for 10 years. Hence the name. Well... it's also a tribute to Alvin Lee. All bolts are stainless.

Location

The right side of the SW face is the steepest part of the crag. The right-most route is Dr. Evil. Ten Years After starts about 10 feet left of Dr. Evil. TYA has several fixed draws.

Protection

Bolts, chain anchors and fixed draws. You need 5 draws to get up...1 at the start, 2 up high, 2 for anchors.
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.12a
My favorite route at the crag. Comfy-Ish holds and physical climbing the whole way. Sinker left kneebar rest, of the no hands required variety, right before the off width. Also one above and below that can help you cop a shake if needed. Jun 26, 2016
EWod
 
EWod  
 
Added leaver's at the top today for ease of cleaning. Jun 7, 2015
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
I personally enjoyed the unique finish. After giving a rectal exam to the crack I clipped off an arm bar... on a sport route!

The glue and gravel slightly detract from otherwise fantastic movement. Thanks for bringing this one to completion. Jun 1, 2013
JesseJ
  5.12-
JesseJ  
  5.12-
So much loose gravel on this one... Would be a lot of fun if the rock didn't disintegrate. Jun 5, 2011
jbak
 
jbak  
 
Ian...you didn't get pumped on Cressent !!?? Loan me your forearms please ! Dec 21, 2009
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
 
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
 
A little hold breakage occurred last week on this route. The first good right hand hold after the upper crux (the right most hold on the ledge above the hole, if that makes more sense) broke a little and is not as big any more - maybe a full pad crimp. Still usable, and shouldn't effect the grade, but thought some people might like to know.

Fun route, and except for the good rest, it's all business. Oct 2, 2009
iancevans
  5.12a/b
iancevans  
  5.12a/b
Well, I apparently missed a nearly hands-free rest, so the redpoint felt much harder than Cres-Sent (didn't really get pumped on Cres-Sent, was pumped out of my mind through the crux on this one). Guess that's what happens when you try to get these things done quickly and without much beta refinement.

Very fun, but Cres-Sent is better. Next weekend I'll try my hand at Delt Melt. Sep 21, 2009
jbak
 
jbak  
 
Eric, I actually like the finish. Probably because it reminds me just a bit of Vedauwoo where I started climbing. So it's a (slightly weak) 3 stars for me. Jul 31, 2008
1Eric Rhicard
  5.12a/b
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.12a/b
Great start and a fun climb with a practically no hands rest in the middle and a not so fun finish above the cool second crux. Would give it three stars if it didn't have the rest or the last ten feet to the chains. Glad to have the rest on the redpoint run today. Jul 30, 2008