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Routes in The Steep

Ashes S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blue Note S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bunkweed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chossy Offwidth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Delt Melt S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dr. Evil S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fat Bastard S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Glenn's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Goldmember S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Green Monster/George of the Jungle Var. S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Johnny Rotten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mini-me S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Not known at this time S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slappin the Johnson S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spiderman S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Stepping Into Blue Sky S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stone Free S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ten Years After S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tony's Route AKA Cres-sent S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Two Birds Too Stoned S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Dean Brault, JSt,
Page Views: 1,556 total · 11/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Jun 26, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route

17 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

Getting to the second bolt is a bit spooky but the holds you are trying to reach are good and easy to clip from. There are no chains so you need a sling to donate to this climb. This may be fixed by the time you get on it. The anchors will probably be moved higher so the rope doesn't get hammered so badly when you lower off. The crux is at the top which I always like.

Location [Suggest Change]

Start is the same as Stone Free moves right into darker steeper rock.

Protection [Suggest Change]



This climb was bolted by Glenn Todd and Tony Lusk. Odds are that it had been climbed before last weekend. Jun 29, 2006
jbak .
jbak .   tucson,az
Maybe we should just call this "Glenn's Route" until the real FAist (or someone) gives us something better. Jun 23, 2008
jbak .
jbak .   tucson,az
This is a totally kick-ass route. It gets steadily harder as you go, has nice movement, and has a final difficult (and hard-to-read) crux. Excellent. Perhaps should be named "The Wanderer" if all the dodging I did on the upper part is normal.

Now has CHAINS on the lower anchor which is where most sane people will end it. Jul 17, 2010

Are you implying that I am insane, since you saw me climb the upper section above the first anchors? Dec 3, 2010
Pretty sure Dean Brault and Jim Scott did the FA. Dec 10, 2011
jbak .
jbak .   tucson,az
Eric, I bumped my rating up to 12a too. Really good route. Although not as striking looking as some, I'm now thinking this is the best route at the steep. Dec 21, 2011
Really good route, but probably not the best at the steep. I suspect John would now agree that "Stepping into Blue Sky" is better (****). I also believe that several other routes at the Steep are of similar great quality to this route (Spiderman, Cres-sent, George of the Jungle, Two Birds). Jul 4, 2013
Mike Kane
Tucson, AZ
Mike Kane   Tucson, AZ
Beta Warning

Hopped on this thing yesterday and was wondering if people are climbing straight over the last bolt or clipping it and moving back right to the arete and avoiding the second crux sequence? I climbed it both ways and the straight up finish is significantly harder (and way better.) There is a lot of variation in how people are grading this climb (11c to 12a/b) which got me curious...

Anyway this is a stellar route and every bit of 3 stars if you do the hard finish. Aug 17, 2015
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
I went slightly left after the last bolt and then back right only when I was pretty much on top of the anchors. By far the best part of the route and agreed it's the part that makes it three stars. Took me like 7 real redpoint runs to send this, so it was hard to give it just 12a.

"Slappin the Johnson" to the right felt significantly easier (even w no stem at the top) and would probably have sent on my second run were it not for breaking a foothold (got it next run). Aug 17, 2015
Mike Kane
Tucson, AZ
Mike Kane   Tucson, AZ
Christian, thanks for responding. For what it's worth that is the sequence I am going to go with when I come back for this one. Was just hard to see that top crux going at 11c. Aug 17, 2015

More About Glenn's Route