Blockhead
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Early Access
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 32.41932, -110.75528 |
| FA: | JB, JWod Oct 2022 |
| Page Views: | 742 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | jbak x on Oct 2, 2022 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
I thought this route was a blast.
Stick-clip the high first bolt.The first 8 feet are gravelly flakes. Stick-clipping will make start safer and way more fun. The flakes look and sound funky, but they've been pried and pounded a bunch now. If a hold does rip, the fall won't be much, and your belayer is out of the strike zone. And it's a cool sequence. With my beta anyway.
After the flakes you are in the Block Zone. This section of blocks defines the term "jug haul". Really fun.
Then the blocks fade, the moves get stiffer, and the pump builds. Nice crux sequences are at the end, just where they should be. The route is continuously overhanging... check out the attached pic.
Name from EFR. Referring to me of course. I was going to call it Block Party, but Eric reminded me that name is already on a climb at the Ravens.



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