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Routes in The Steep

Ashes S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blue Note S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bunkweed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chossy Offwidth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Delt Melt S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dr. Evil S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fat Bastard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Glenn's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Goldmember S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Green Monster/George of the Jungle Var. S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Johnny Rotten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mini-me S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
SE Face S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slappin the Johnson S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spiderman S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Stepping Into Blue Sky S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stone Free S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ten Years After S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Tony's Route AKA Cres-sent S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Two Birds Too Stoned S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Tony Lusk ? Glenn Todd ?
Page Views: 289 total · 2/month
Shared By: jbak . on Jun 26, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Almost everyone who has done this route prior to Aug 2018 has commented on bad anchor and bolt placements. See Jon Hendrixson's comment in particular.  I'm not really sure that Tony ever red-pointed this route.  It seems like he would have told me.  And I can't believe he would have left all of the bolting issues. These issues probably colored people's impressions of the route.  I think many folks would add a star to their quality ratings if they repeated the route now.

Anyway... here is what I did (Aug 2018):

- Lowered the anchor to a better spot where it will rub the rope less.  The last 10 feet of the original route added nothing.  Except rope drag. And now the anchor has the awesome ClimbTech Mussys.

- Added a bolt so that if you blow the balancy clip at the last bolt below the NEW anchor you don't pay a horrible price.

- Pounded a wood wedge into the inverted-v crack that was grabbing and trying to shred the rope. Put a glob of epoxy putty right under the wood.  That should be a permanent fix.

- Moved the 1st bolt up so it actually protects the opening move and would be better on the rope and belayer if you fall on the cruxy opening move.  Stick clip of 1st bolt is a reasonable thing in the new configuration.

- Lowered the 2nd bolt so you are not looking at groundfall.

- Added a bolt so you don't slam the slab if you fall above the 2nd bolt.

- Moved Tony's old 3rd bolt (becomes my 4th) 2 feet left to where it should have been all along.

Brian Zittlosen and Josie Wodraska helped with this fixup project.

------------------------------------------------

This route is now as good as any other 5.11 at the crag.  It compares pretty well to any 5.11 in the Upper Highway area. Technical, sustained, cool holds.  It is a blast.

Location

In the middle of the narrow SE face is a tiny cave. That's the start.

Protection

12 bolts and Mussys.  It is hard to see the new 3rd bolt from the ground.  It is on a sloped shelf above the 2nd bolt.  

The 7 bolts (1st 4 + 2nd to last + 2 anchor bolts) that I installed are SS 3/8 x 3.75.  The remaining older bolts are in really good condition so I did not bother to replace them all.

Photos

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Hendrixson
Littleton, CO
  5.11a
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
  5.11a
This climb is between Blue Note and Mini-me. Other than a few bolting issues (ground fall potential getting to the second bolt, third bolt way out right, drag from the chains, and the tendency of the rope to get snagged on itself in the crack), I thought it was a lot of fun. Sep 17, 2011
jbak .
tucson,az
  5.11
jbak .   tucson,az
  5.11
Thx for turning this page over to me Luke !! This route is really fun now that the badnesses have been removed. Aug 27, 2018
JoeS  
Good work John. A really fine route which was desperately in need of rebolting. Should see a lot more traffic now, with a lot less unnecessary risk. Aug 28, 2018

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