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Routes in The Steep

Ashes S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blue Note S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bunkweed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chossy Offwidth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Delt Melt S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dr. Evil S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fat Bastard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Glenn's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Goldmember S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Green Monster/George of the Jungle Var. S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Johnny Rotten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mini-me S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Not known at this time S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slappin the Johnson S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spiderman S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Stepping Into Blue Sky S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stone Free S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ten Years After S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tony's Route AKA Cres-sent S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Two Birds Too Stoned S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: JBaker, Miles Kunkel, CSnyder, JShiefman, Darek, July 1999
Page Views: 189 total, 1/month
Shared By: jbak on Jun 21, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Cruxy start in little offset cave then over a bulge to a good rest. Blank headwall leads up toward roof which is skirted on its right side. To avoid rope drag at the lip of the little cave, you can reach back and unclip bolt 2 once you have clipped bolt 3. And your belayer can unclip bolt 1 at the same time. Overhangs 25 feet although it does not feel that steep.

Location

Right-most route of those starting on the really steep part of the SW face.

Protection

11 bolts plus chains. Probably best to pre-clip the 2nd bolt.

Photos

1Eric Rhicard
  5.12b/c
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.12b/c
I want to get on it again and see how it feels. STRONG climber might have emptied the tank red-pointing Delt melt in the rain. The last ten feet had to be hard covered in water. Plus he wasn't taking the obvious rest down low which has to cost you some power later on. Aug 12, 2008
jbak
 
jbak  
 
Well Eric, another STRONG climber was swearing at this route when I was up there recently. He claimed it was harder than Cres-sent and harder than Eureka (!) So maybe 12a/b is a sandbag. Cres agreed with that rating though. And Miles said it was 5.11. Aug 12, 2008
1Eric Rhicard
  5.12b/c
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.12b/c
That might be saying something about Cres-sent or my steep rock abilities. Probably the latter since The Crossing has to be 12d or 13a based on the number of attempts it took me to redpoint it. Jun 27, 2006
1Eric Rhicard
  5.12b/c
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.12b/c
It's evil all right! Jun 23, 2006