Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Steep

Ashes S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blue Note S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bunkweed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chossy Offwidth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Delt Melt S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dr. Evil S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fat Bastard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Glenn's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Goldmember S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Green Monster/George of the Jungle Var. S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Johnny Rotten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mini-me S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Not known at this time S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slappin the Johnson S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spiderman S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Stepping Into Blue Sky S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stone Free S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ten Years After S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tony's Route AKA Cres-sent S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Two Birds Too Stoned S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: p1 - maybe TL (using the long-gone tree), p2 - JBak July '08, p1 + p2 back-to-back, Josie Wodraska, June 2012
Page Views: 1,868 total, 16/month
Shared By: jbak on Aug 12, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This Tony Lusk project is one of the best and steepest 5.11s on the mountain. Tricky, burly, sustained.

This route can be done 2 ways...

1) Original start is down on the corner and leads up to SE face at about 11b.
Eases off after the 4th bolt. Clip one more and go around the corner to a surprisingly comfy belay stance. 2nd pitch traverses left a bit more, then heads up the spectacular, forearm-testing, overhanging arete for 45 more feet to anchor. Seems 11c done this way. This is my preferred method, but...

2) (Dr. Skye) Do the finger-tearing start of Dr. Evil and head directly onto the 2nd pitch of Blue Sky. Slightly harder and eliminates the belay.

Location

Starts ON the corner formed by the SW and SE faces. Move right onto the SE face, go up for 5 bolts where it gets easy, traverse left around the corner to a double-bolt belay anchor on the SW face. Pitch 2 climbs up just left of the overhanging corner.

Protection

Bolts with chain anchors.

Photos

jbak
 
jbak  
 
Josie sent both pitches (on sight) today for the first continuous ascent of the route. We found an ancient redtag at the midpoint anchor which confirms my notion that Tony never redpointed the 2nd pitch. Jul 14, 2012
jbak
 
jbak  
 
There is some doubt as to whether TL ever really red-pointed this route. In any case, I think it's great. Better than Spiderman. Jun 26, 2012
jbak
 
jbak  
 
The death block is that huge wedged block you step out on as you start the arete. It's refrigerator sized and cracked all the way around. I wouldn't want to be nearby during an earthquake. It's well-wedged and looks safe enough though. Aug 28, 2008
A "bit sharp" not sharp. To be honest I threw that in for Vince's sake as his beta uses a razor edged side pull. A more accurate term would be pointy and not that fun to pull on. But the upper arete makes the short section of less than ideal holds worth the momentary digital discomfort. If Vince hadn't been surfing all last week he might not have whined about his tips either. So to restate it; the holds are as smooth as a baby's butt and if they hurt your fingers stay off the surf board.

PS I never noticed a death block. Aug 28, 2008
jbak
 
jbak  
 
Sharp ? Eric you're killin me. You need to do some Windy Pt climbs (espec Beaver Wall) to recalibrate your idea of sharp. I think the combo route (Dr Sky) rocks. Every move. If this grade is your limit, you're going to NEED that rest. And, as you say, the arete is outstanding -- hats off to Tony. I can't think of a sport 5.11 I like better at the moment. Maybe I have a case of Vincitis though. Aug 28, 2008
Did the Dr. Evil start and finished on Stepping into Blue Sky (Dr. Sky). Don't know if I could give it three stars as the start is a bit sharp and there is a big ledge in the middle. The upper arete is really good and might deserve three stars. Yeah, it deserves three stars as it is a must do if you go there. I clipped two of my longest quickdraws together for the bolt on the ledge but you could easily downclimb and unclip a shorter draw after clipping the bolt above. Great idea to link these two climbs Jbak. Aug 28, 2008