Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Cannon Ice Climbs

Black Dike 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI4-5 M3
Fafnir WI5+
La Deepfreeze WI3
Omega WI5+
Type: Ice, 450 ft, 3 pitches, Grade IV
FA: John Bouchard, Steve Zajchowski, Roger Martin
Page Views: 5,848 total, 47/month
Shared By: andrew kulmatiski on Sep 19, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Too many people on the Black Dike? Look to the right - wow that looks crazy, and it is. Conditions really vary on this route, but it often demonstrates some wild blocky climbing through ice ceilings. Strong upgulley winds can form horizontal ice roofs that have to be negotiated.
P1. Up the Black Dike gulley
P2. Step right, climb through bulges to a snow ledge.
P3. Continue through blocky climbing on sometimes thin ice (crux) then through mixed climbing up a small gulley to top.

Location

The route shares a start with the Black Dike, in the Black Dike coloir. After the first pitch move right.

Protection

Bring some stubbies. Large nuts or med cam for exit moves could be used.
Climbed Fafnir in Feb 2017. Very nice route, experienced the full gamut of alpine conditions (rain, sleet, snow, mist, spindrift). We belayed out the initial snow slopes below the black dike, certainly avalanche terrain. We had a significant "whooumpf" of the snowpack settling, with some overnight snow. We required no rock gear, but the terrain around the last pitch is proper go-anywhere terrain, lots of gear and cool looking climbing! Feb 11, 2017