Avg: 4 from 5 votes
|Type:||Ice, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||John Bouchard, Rainsford Rouner Feb. 1976|
|Page Views:||6,721 total · 49/month|
|Shared By:||Eugene Kwan on Nov 25, 2006|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
DescriptionOmega is one of the classic hard winter routes in New England. This ephermal icefall comes into shape perhaps once or twice a season, and can disappear with a day's rain or sun. The first pitch (full 60 m) climbs a thinly iced slab up to a cave (fixed pins--backup with gear). Depending on conditions, this may involve somewhat desperate drytooling. The second pitch can be done as a very long pitch or broken up into two pitches. It traverses left out of the cave onto sustained and steep columns. At the top of the climb, you can belay from a tree in the woods or a set an ice anchor (the ice is thicker at the top). To descend, either intercept the Black Dike descent trail further back in the woods or traverse about 20 feet right on a snowy ledge at the top, and set V-threads. A double-rope rappel will get you to the cave. You can rappel from the pins there to the ground.
First ascent: 1976, John Bouchard and Rainsford Rouner