Across the Great Divide

A modern mixed classic. Quality climbing in an incredible setting. First climbed as a terrifying A4 aid route by Cole and Wilcox, the wet turf and loose blocks that litter this wall are tamed by freezing temperatures making for an excellent winter endeavor. First Ascensionist Jon Nicolodi wrote an excellent summary for the AAJ here. 

Pitch Breakdown:

P1: start up a right facing dihedral with cryptic, varied movement to a snowy ledge. This is the North Wall Start to the WG (thanks to R Hall for pointing this out!). Continue through a great lieback crack. Belay off of three fixed pins and a tricam. M7 115’

P2: Fire out right, traversing the exposed shield along positive pick slots and slabby feet. Hanging fixed pin belay. 50’ M7+

P3: Begin up blocky terrain, eventually locating a diagonal right-trending weakness in the wall. Shimmy through a constriction past the fixed hanging belay to a sloping ledge. Tricky gear. Belay here off of a couple medium size cams and a fixed bulldog. 90’ M6 PG

P4: Welcome to the crux. Gain the obvious pick seam and fight! There is a detached flake that provides a useful a lot but don’t torque too hard. Aim for the left (newer) set of bolts. 50’ M8+

Two 70s will reach the ground from here.

P5: Continue right along the pick seam until it steepens into a small corner. I have not done this pitch, but Jon describes “a handful of big moves above gear such as cams nested in flakes, knifeblades, a passive red ball nut, and a number 2 Pecker.” (AAJ 2023). Pin belay. 90’ M6+ R.

P6: Join the Whitney Gilman and take er to the top however you so desire. 150’ M4-5

From the base of the Black Dike, locate the right-facing dihedral along the looker’s left hand wall.