Daedalus

I have only climbed the first three pitches of this route, but they were of such outstanding quality that I thought other New England mixed climbers should be aware of this superb winter route on Cannon. The full route goes to the top of the cliff. I have heard that the upper pitches include stretches of run out climbing, potentially up to M6 X. The first three pitches, however, offer adequate (if occasionally thoughtful) protection on excellent stone.

Pitch 1: Begin in the broken right-facing corner system on the right side of the Duet Buttress. Climb blocky, mostly dry terrain through tiered cracks to a nice ledge and a two-bolt belay. There may be a smear of ice on the wall to the right offering good feet, but rock holds are plentiful. The pitch ends at the same two-bolt anchor used for the summer rock climb Sticky Fingers. M5, 60 meters

Pitch 2: Move left and climb a short easy apron of ice (WI3) to reach the base of a beautiful right-facing corner. Use a variety of mixed techniques to move up the corner, which may vary depending on how much ice chokes the crack or covers the wall on the right. Expect to layback and torque your way through the crux, a stretch of .75 crack with poor feet. Pass an intermediate anchor of 3 or 4 fixed pins equalized with old cord (about 3/4 of the way up the pitch, on the left face of the dihedral) to a small ledge beneath an arcing roof and a bombay chimney. Build an anchor here incorporating, if you like, a new (as of 2024) fixed lost arrow, a fixed nut, and an old, rusty 1/4" bolt. M7+, 30 meters. This pitch may feel more like M8 if the crack is dry. 

Pitch 3: Move up under the roof and step right to get established in a right facing corner, clipping a fixed pin. Climb up and then angle left through a short, somewhat awkward but fun chimney, eventually emerging onto a large ledge. Belay from an anchor of fixed pins which can be backed up. M6, 20 meters.

We descended from here in two straightforward rappels with two 60M ropes, first to the two-bolt anchor atop pitch 1, then to the ground.       

Daedalus ascends a crack system on the right side of the Duet Buttress. The route begins in the right-facing corner on the right side of the shield of rock containing the summer rock climb Sticky Fingers.