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Routes in Lower Blair III

A Dream of Fat Antelope T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
A Horse Will Have To Do T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arete Already T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bragging About Jesus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bullwinkle T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Damit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Empty Suit T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Five Finger Discount T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Go Left, Old Man, Go Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hard to Believe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Inconvenient Angles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inferno Fog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inner Notch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Intimidation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jogging Direct T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jogging to Vedauwoo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Femme Takeda T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Ledge of the World, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Middle Notch T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Outer Dark T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Outer Notch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Penetration T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pretty Girls with Long Knives T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Putter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Random Crystals T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scratch the Surface T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit Talk (aka Gameday) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Sketch Palsy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of a Wanted Man T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Sweet Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Take 5 T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unicorn Exterminator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unremembered T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,216 total, 42/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Sep 10, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

It's surprising that this route hasn't been added to MP until now, since it's one of the best routes on Blair III. Start by climbing a nice hand crack that angles right to a sloping ledge. From the ledge, pull the first of two cruxes up a steep and strenuous crack/face. The next crux is a challenging offwidth that leans left and offers some good grunting.

Location

This route is located on the northwest face of Blair III towards the southwest end. Look for a triangular inset of rock about 20' off the ground to find the start.

Protection

Medium stoppers to #4.5 Camalot. There is a two bolt anchor at the top and two ropes are needed to rap off (one 70m might reach).

Photos

AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.9+
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.9+
The only thing that could detract from this excellent route is reading the comments about it here.

Awesome line. Do it! Jun 20, 2016
jake marlow
laramie
  5.9+
jake marlow   laramie
  5.9+
Possible to do with nothing larger than a #4. I protected the last wide moves with a blue Alien on a 120cm sling. Aug 3, 2013
fluff head
  5.9-
fluff head  
  5.9-
First, I would venture to say this climb is 5.9 at best, but it is closer to 5.9-. The beginning part has excellent gear that is not difficult to place and the moves are maybe a little harder than the first moves on Lower Slot Left (5.7) or the crux moves of Becker (5.7 or 5.8). The middle part also has good gear and finger/hand jam/stemming/chimney move options that are as difficult as the beginning of Capt. Nemo or Oslund's Delight (both 5.8). The upper section, in the context of offwidths, in no way compares to Finally (5.9+ OW) or Fantasia (5.9 OW). Get on those two climbs and try to say the upper part of Intimidation is 5.9+ OW with a straight face.

Also, this climb has at least 4 solid ledge rests- so calling it sustained is laughable. And wide? Only at the end.

Keep your soft Boulder grades down in your bubble with your pranas and egos. If the climbing down there is so boss, brah, stay down there. Oct 23, 2012
Andrew McLean
Colorado
  5.9+
Andrew McLean   Colorado
  5.9+
This was the first offwidth I ever climbed (followed), and my partner and I both almost had our shoes fall off whilst heel toeing out the chimney at the top. Such a great route!

Love the CO vs. WY ratings banter on this route's comments. I'll still go with 9+ as the climb should stay what the FA rated it. Just know what you're getting into when you jump onto any 9+ climb in WY or CO. I mean come on Eldo. climbers... . You all know what 9+ is about. It's often harder than modern 10b. Sep 14, 2011
Elijah Flenner
  5.9+
Elijah Flenner  
  5.9+
There are bolt anchors and one can get down with a 70 meter rope. Great climbing with hands, offwidth, and several interesting sections. I would agree with the grade of 9+, but if you are not used to Vedauwoo and don't look around, then it will feel harder. Aug 21, 2010
Bjorn
Leadvegas, CO
 
Bjorn   Leadvegas, CO
 
This route is just fine at 9+. I don't even think this is harder or more sustained than other routes at the grade in Vedauwoo. With 6 to 8 foot cruxes separated by ledges at which total relaxation can be achieved, I would actually say 'sustained' is a poor choice of adjective for this route. The final stretch can be kept pretty relaxed by carrying TWO #5 Friend sized pieces instead of the one that I had to walk.
Those who climb much at Vedauwoo gradually will arrive at the conclusion that any given grade of climbing here (5.6 or 5.12b) is hard won by nationwide standards. This is far from the only area where 9+ is a grade to be approached with a high anticipation of difficult and severe leading. Though a discrepancy may exist between local and nationwide consensus grades, this tendency does not justify retroactive grade inflation.
Those behind the discussion above need to mind their manners. Remember that rock climbing is supposed to be fun and we climbers are supposed to like and help each other.
And how in the holy hell did Eldo get dragged into this? Aug 22, 2009
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
Oh my stars. And I though KAYAKING was for kindergartners.

Does it matter how skillfully we murder the odd offwidth if we cannot be bothered to read?

Says right there in the new comment guidelines. "#1: don't be a jerk"

People eating right out of dumpsters, yet here we are, bravely grouching about grades behind the tall fences of our computer screens.

Oshit. Guideline #2: post relevant info about this route. #3: limit offtopic posts, rants, or lengthy discussions to the forums. Seems I find myself my own Satan.

Somebody cut my rope--I'm out! Jul 22, 2009
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
Just to be clear, the purpose of my "Eldo is choss" quip was to get somebody all butt hurt over how their local scene is viewed. It makes no sense that we get called bad natured for defending our home crag, but it's perfectly ok for you to defend your home crag. But I guess you missed that nuance.

Eldo is what it is. I learned to climb there. Jan 1, 2009
slim

  5.9+
slim    
  5.9+
Adam,

I think that the star rating for the Eldo routes is pretty biased due to several reasons:

a) a lot of Eldo climbers don't leave Eldo and climb elsewhere very often.
b) Boulder climbing in general is pretty mediocre. That's not to say that there aren't some good routes, but the percentage of total routes that somebody who has climbed all over the country would call 'really good' is pretty low.
c) a lot of the star ratings are probably ranked based on other Eldo routes, i.e. the upper 10% of mediocre will probably be pretty mediocre.

I've climbed quite a few routes at Eldo, as well as at quite a few other areas over the last 20 years, so I think i have a pretty good basis of comparison. I have taken a lot of out-of-town friends there for their first time, and taken them on the "4 star routes", and they usually find it pretty disappointing.

It makes for some decent after-work climbing during the longer days though. Dec 31, 2008
slim

  5.9+
slim    
  5.9+
When people ask if I want to climb at Eldo on Saturday, I usually say "if i have the entire day off, I would rather drive somewhere with good climbing". Eldo is ok. Definitely the most over-hyped place that I have ever climbed at. The routes might be more than 60 feet tall, but usually it is 5 feet of climbing, 10 feet of scrambling, 5 feet of climbing, then a 50 foot bushy ledge traverse, then 5 feet of climbing, then 30 feet of choss scrambling.... ad nauseum. Don't get me wrong, there are some really good pitches in Eldo, but it is definitely lacking in density. Dec 30, 2008
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
Screw it. Eldo is choss. Grade fights suck. Nov 22, 2008
Colin Kenneth
San Francisco, CA
Colin Kenneth   San Francisco, CA
Hmm. Again being told to "suck it and go home". Please, someone else tell me to go back to Colorado where the climbing is so awful. Please be a bit more receptive to outsiders views yeah? We aren't trying to convert you. We are trying to share helpful insight to those who may NOT be trying to shove your own license plate up your ass.

As per the grade of 9+ being thrown up after 10s and 11s...yeah, I don't doubt there has been a 9 established after the invent of higher grades which accompanied new shoe and climbing pro technology.

I'm pretty sure there must be a few legitimate 9+s out there after Layton Kor climbed the naked edge at the initial grade of 9+ too. Tell you what, I am a friend of Jim Brink as well, I will ask him about the 9+ grade, to settle something, Then I will keep it to myself since my the color on my license plate pretty much means you won't give a damn anyway. Nov 21, 2008
Colin Kenneth
San Francisco, CA
Colin Kenneth   San Francisco, CA
You have to love the good nature of Ved climbers, don't you.

If I may be so bold, and at the risk of having disparaging comments flung at me because I'm a climber from (skoff) COLORADO of all places, where everyone knows, there are no climbers, or PLACES to climb...If we study not the climb, but your POSTS, notice Matt's initial post, is concise, HELPFUL and descriptive of why he believes it goes at his believed grade....

Wyo guys just pretty much say "suck it and go home" for having any kind of opinion other than what's in the book. That is why mountain project exists...to share HELPFUL opinions, and come to CONSENSUS on what may be less than universally agreed upon. It's meant to be helpful, not to squabble about "greenies" coming and...uh-oh, climbing YOUR routes. (which notably, they are not.) Verily, they don't have to be climbed as you insist they should, and if Matt wishes to give someone a helpful heads up as to the fact that this route may not be what would widely be accepted at the current grade of 9+...it may be just that...HELPFUL to someone. A strange thought.

Matt has a point. Grades used to stop at 9. Perhaps then, the original grade of 9+ means it's balls hard for a 9. I think I'll come back up to roof ranch and start regrading things B2+ so I can help people really know what they are climbing in the style of a true Wyo climbing cowboy. Nov 20, 2008
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
  5.10b/c
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
  5.10b/c
Regurgitator? I am not even sure what that means. And that comment was not necessarily directed at anyone in particular. Feel free to rate it 9+ if you wish, Tyler. I am just pointing out the fact that there are some inconsistencies in terms of the grading here. Let's take a look at what's in the area - would you recommend this route to someone breaking into 9s that just cruised A Dream of Fat Antelope, suggesting that this one is just "slightly" more difficult? Or do you think that Jogging to Vedauwoo is more difficult? The point is, that although Ved has the reputation for stiff grades, it is just like every other area in that some of the climbs are considerably easier than those given in the guide books and some are considerably more difficult. I am suggesting that, based on other routes in the area with comparable grades, maybe the 9+ is a sandbag (although not a big one). So relax, I'm not telling you what to do. I'm expressing an opinion.

And for those considering doing this route - despite Pablo's comments indicating my "whining", note how many stars I gave this route - this thing is awesome and you shouldn't miss it if you are in the area.

I think the FA on this one may go to Jim Brink (an offwidth connoisseur and fellow greenie who has put up a lot of stuff in Vedauwoo). Nov 18, 2008
Tyler Smeenk
Laramie, WY
  5.9+
Tyler Smeenk   Laramie, WY
  5.9+
That's right, I don't like some greenie calling me a regurgitator on this site or anywhere else for that matter. I tend to take offense to someone from CO (or anywhere else) telling me how I should grade the routes at Vedauwoo. In my opinion, the route goes at 9+. Matt you can stay down in CO and tell people how to grades routes down there for all I care. Sep 29, 2008
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
  5.10b/c
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
  5.10b/c
I am not one to typically pay attention to grade fights, but can we all please stop regurgitating ratings in the books. Most will agree that where the consensus in the guide books was 9+ at Vedauwoo, this typically refers to a period in time when ratings stopped at 9. This is yet another example of one of these old school ratings where the aspiring 9 leader will find themselves first flailing and then probably aiding their way up or running around the backside to rap off and retrieve their gear.

This thing is wide and sustained - right off the ground you will find that what looks like a nice hand crack is actually fairly insecure until about 15' off the ground. Getting up into the first wide section itself (around block split by two converging cracks) is tricky due to the angle and the steepness of the face. After this, the grunting begins as you hit several wide sections - the first two being right leaning and the last being left leaning. I believe that route actually gets more difficult toward the top, with the last wide section before the anchors being an all-out heel-toe, arm-barring grunt to the top.

This route is long and will probably feel best if you have doubles in the hands to at least #4 Camalots - probably be better to have a #4.5 or 5, but is doable with just #4s. Aug 4, 2008
Tyler Smeenk
Laramie, WY
  5.9+
Tyler Smeenk   Laramie, WY
  5.9+
Get on this thing, very fun. My friend said a 60 meter rope got him to the ground. Make sure your rope is 60, apperently my buddy's rope is not a full 60 meter, as I was left hanging in a tree about 20 feet up. Jun 2, 2008