Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1: Mark Roberts Zach Orenczak, P2: Zach Orenczak Mark Roberts
Page Views: 558 total · 11/month
Shared By: Jeff S on Sep 30, 2014
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

P1. Rocket up through a exfoliating flake utilizing deep hand jams until the wideness takes over. A few OW moves takes you to the top of the flake (upon the Unicorns head) where one can get a good rest before a short hand section to a move past a bolt. Follow the horizontal crack until reaching the anchors above.

P2. climb left facing corner until you can traverse right at horizontal and make one final overhang move to top (as per Orenczak description pg. 166 in the Vedauwoo guide, 2011).

Location

It looks like a Unicorn. It's just right of Bragging About Jesus. You can rap 80' from anchors.

Protection

Some hand-sized pieces and smaller, a few draws, and either 2 #5 BD or 1 #5 and 1 #4 should get the job done safely.

Photos

Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Much like unicorns, the quality of this route is simply make-believe. Aug 10, 2016