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Routes in Lower Blair III

A Dream of Fat Antelope T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
A Horse Will Have To Do T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arete Already T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bragging About Jesus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bullwinkle T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Damit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Empty Suit T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Five Finger Discount T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Go Left, Old Man, Go Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hard to Believe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Inconvenient Angles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inferno Fog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inner Notch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Intimidation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jogging Direct T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jogging to Vedauwoo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Femme Takeda T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Ledge of the World, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Middle Notch T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Outer Dark T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Outer Notch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Penetration T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pretty Girls with Long Knives T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Putter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Random Crystals T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scratch the Surface T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit Talk (aka Gameday) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Sketch Palsy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of a Wanted Man T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Sweet Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Take 5 T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unicorn Exterminator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unremembered T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Rick Horn, 1964
Page Views: 2,271 total, 28/month
Shared By: Handsome B. Wonderful on May 6, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This surprising OW has many things that make the name fitting. It is hard to believe this was freed in 1964. It is hard to believe it doesn't get way more attention, and it is hard to believe it is rated 5.10. This awesome OW is located on the huge block at the top of Moby Dick on Blair 2. You can't miss it.

It gets your attention right off the bat and holds it until you are standing on top. From the ground, it looks like it will have a lot of hands...it does not. It is fists and bigger the whole way. This is a fantastic OW testpiece. It has everything to make an OW hard: it doglegs and changes sizes the whole way making it very difficult to get into a rhythm. It also is surprisingly rest-free. If I got the FA, I would give it .11b. This route is very sustained. For those aspiring to become OW pros, this is a must do. It is harder than October Light, or Left Torpedo Tube, but easier than Worm Drive.

Protection

#3.5 Camalots and bigger.

Location

The climb is on the NW side of Blair III.
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.10+
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.10+
This is a really fantastic route. I can hardly think of a better wide crack I've climbed, save Road Warrior on Mt. Evans. It felt easier than October Light to me, but maybe that is because I tried the October Light crux wrong side-in.

I kept convincing myself that it is 5.10 when I climbed it, which worked pretty well. That said, it is likely not any flavor of 5.10 for people with smaller fists and shorter arms.

A good rack with some gear bumping is 2x #4 and 2x #5 Camalot, new style. No need for #3s or #6s. Jul 31, 2017
John L
Fort Collins, CO
 
John L   Fort Collins, CO
 
There are now 2 bolt anchors with rap rings specifically for Hard to Believe. They must have been added pretty recently - they're pretty shiny! Nov 5, 2016
Ray Lovestead
Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Ray Lovestead   Boulder, CO
  5.11-
This route is spectacular. Incredibly beautiful and very difficult, perfect.

You could do a fantastic tour by climbing Penetration and traversing right to the base of this route. Or you can come up from a chimney below from the south. Looks like someone put a large log across the 'leap of faith,' and it is completely safe to go that way.

I think this is currently my favorite route at the Voo.

(Gear beta): lots of 3, 4, 5s. Doesn't need any 6s at all. Make sure you save a 3, 4, and/or 5 to build an anchor and bring up your second. Rappel off the anchors at the north end to the Penetration anchors, then you can walk to the right back to your stuff.

DO IT! Jun 5, 2016
Any approach beta that doesn't involve making the leap of faith across that chimney would be much appreciated Jul 20, 2015
rob.calm
Loveland, Colorado
rob.calm   Loveland, Colorado
Handsome: I’m glad you climbed Hard to Believe. As far as I know, you may have done the first ascent. In June of 1996, I attempted the climb assuming it was 10b as I had been told. In those days, I felt I could have gotten up any one-pitch 11a even if it involved some hanging. However, I got nowhere. Afterwards, I asked some strong climbers to try it. They said they would, but never got around to it. In Rock Climbing at Vedauwoo, I gave it a tentative 10d rating (it sure wasn’t 10b) and thought that before the book went to print, I’d get a good estimate from someone who climbed it. Didn’t happen. I was sorry that I let this slip by and should have stated in the book that I didn’t know of anyone who free climbed the route. In doing the research for the book, I spoke to Dave Rearick (first ascent of the Longs Peak Diamond) who was sitting on top of the rock in 1964 as the supposed FA party arrived at top. The name is due to him. Has anyone else out there climbed the route? If so, let’s hear from you.

Rob.calm

Edit: 17 Sept. 2012: Oops. The climb is on the NW side of Blair III. Sep 7, 2011