Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Rick Horn, 1964
Page Views: 3,421 total · 34/month
Shared By: Handsome B. Wonderful on May 6, 2011 with improvements by John L
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This surprising OW has many things that make the name fitting. It is hard to believe this was freed in 1964. It is hard to believe it doesn't get way more attention, and it is hard to believe it is rated 5.10. This awesome OW is located on the huge block at the top of Moby Dick on Blair 2. You can't miss it.

It gets your attention right off the bat and holds it until you are standing on top. From the ground, it looks like it will have a lot of hands...it does not. It is fists and bigger the whole way. This is a fantastic OW testpiece. It has everything to make an OW hard: it doglegs and changes sizes the whole way making it very difficult to get into a rhythm. It also is surprisingly rest-free. If I got the FA, I would give it .11b. This route is very sustained. For those aspiring to become OW pros, this is a must do. It is harder than October Light, or Left Torpedo Tube, but easier than Worm Drive.

Protection

#3.5 Camalots and bigger.

2 bolt anchor with rap rings on top of the route. No need to bring a gear anchor.

Location

The climb is on the NW side of Blair III.

Photos