Type: Trad
FA: Cowan and Mattson, 1984
Page Views: 569 total · 5/month
Shared By: Johan Grahnen on Jun 25, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Somewhat misleadingly called a "sustained finger crack" in Kelman's 2003 guidebook, this route is more about technical stemming than finger locks. Climb the flake and slab up to the base of a dihedral with a tiny little crack in the back of it. Proceed up this corner on a few insecure jams and flakes/crystals for feet, and head left to a shelf when the crack pinches down. Above this tricky bit, the crack widens, first to fingers and finally to thin hands.

Location

This is left of Putter on Lower Blair III, right of Bragging About Jesus. Looking at the latter, skirt the cliff line toward the right through boulders. Work up and right until a large, triangular flake is encountered. The left-facing dihedral with the thin crack directly above leads to the chains.

Protection

The thinnest gear you can get your hands on. The smallest Camalot C3 is too large for protecting the crux. A few hand-sized pieces are useful for the start and finish. This has bolted anchors up top.

Photos

- No Photos -