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Routes in Lower Blair III

A Dream of Fat Antelope T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
A Horse Will Have To Do T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arete Already T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bragging About Jesus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bullwinkle T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Damit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Empty Suit T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Five Finger Discount T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Go Left, Old Man, Go Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hard to Believe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Inconvenient Angles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inferno Fog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inner Notch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Intimidation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jogging Direct T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jogging to Vedauwoo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Femme Takeda T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Ledge of the World, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Middle Notch T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Outer Dark T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Outer Notch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Penetration T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pretty Girls with Long Knives T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Putter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Random Crystals T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scratch the Surface T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit Talk (aka Gameday) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Sketch Palsy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of a Wanted Man T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Sweet Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Take 5 T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unicorn Exterminator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unremembered T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: Scott Milton
Page Views: 308 total, 10/month
Shared By: Kevin Macartney on Jul 1, 2015
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Son of a Wanted Man is an anomaly for Vedauwoo; instead of climbing a crack or sharp crystals, the dike that characterizes this route allows you to climb on mostly smooth holds: crimps, pinches, and underclings. Don't let the abundant features fool you though, Son of a Wanted Man is hard from the get go. A short tricky boulder problem guards the beginning of the route, then after a quick reprieve, you charge forward into the crux overlap, where the angle of the wall changes. As you get closer to the obvious jug, the other features die off, and you are left with powerful moves to vague pinches and blobs. Once you gain the Thank God jug, the hard climbing is over, but now you have to place gear for protection, and just when you think it's over, there is one last boulder guarding the chains, more of a mental challenge than a physical one though.

Location

You'll find this route about a hundred feet left of Pretty Girls With Long Knives. The route climbs the obvious dike feature (handholds!) up the mostly vertical face.

Protection

5 bolts to get you through the crux, then protect with some gear up to thin hands size to the anchors.

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Warrior
Rock City, GA
Warrior   Rock City, GA
Spectacular looking vertical dike...dreamy....like really, single pitch doesnt get more aesthetic.

If anyone has beta, I'd love to hear the rundown. Felt hard...cryptically hard.... Jan 5, 2016