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Routes in Lower Blair III

A Dream of Fat Antelope T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
A Horse Will Have To Do T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arete Already T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bragging About Jesus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bullwinkle T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Damit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Empty Suit T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Five Finger Discount T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Go Left, Old Man, Go Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hard to Believe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Inconvenient Angles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inferno Fog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inner Notch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Intimidation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jogging Direct T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jogging to Vedauwoo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Femme Takeda T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Ledge of the World, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Middle Notch T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Outer Dark T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Outer Notch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Penetration T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pretty Girls with Long Knives T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Putter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Random Crystals T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scratch the Surface T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit Talk (aka Gameday) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Sketch Palsy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of a Wanted Man T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Sweet Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Take 5 T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unicorn Exterminator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unremembered T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Cedar Wright
Page Views: 809 total, 12/month
Shared By: Cedar Wright on Jul 28, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is an overhanging finger-to-flared, thin hand crack with a cool, but unprotected boulder problem start on a lone boulder/tower. If you send this without tape and don't gobie, find me and I'll buy you a bear and a high-five.

Pete Takeda who has climbed in the Woo for years, turned me on to this challenging little rig, and this is one of the legendary Takeda's many nicknames. He had tried this thing on a few occasions but never managed to lead it clean. He generously turned the line over to me, and I managed to barely scrap up it second go.

This is the sort of climb that seems to pack an eighty-foot climbing experience into only forty feet of burly crack. The start is 11+ and unprotected for about ten feet, so have your belayer spot til then, and then make sure every piece counts, because you are close to the ground.

Location

This route is located in the Lower Blair III area before you reach the main cliff on your left as you approach. About two hundred yards or so before you reach routes like Five Finger Discount, venture 90 degrees left of the trail, about forty yards or so uphill towards a tower-like formation. The short, overhanging crack faces east and gets shade after noon.

Protection

Thin to a #1 Camalot.

Photos

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honeyjacket
  5.12a
honeyjacket  
  5.12a
Like most things, this probably feels harder in the summer. Sep 30, 2013
Sent this in a few tries over a couple days (no tape on any attempt). Looks like you owe me a bear. I am partial to brown, but a black bear would suffice if your inventory is low. I hope you're a man of your word. In addition, I will accept your high-five congratulations but only after said bear is gifted. Aug 23, 2013