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Routes in Lower Blair III

A Dream of Fat Antelope T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
A Horse Will Have To Do T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arete Already T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bragging About Jesus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bullwinkle T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Damit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Empty Suit T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Five Finger Discount T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Go Left, Old Man, Go Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hard to Believe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Inconvenient Angles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inferno Fog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inner Notch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Intimidation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jogging Direct T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jogging to Vedauwoo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Femme Takeda T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Ledge of the World, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Middle Notch T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Outer Dark T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Outer Notch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Penetration T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pretty Girls with Long Knives T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Putter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Random Crystals T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scratch the Surface T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit Talk (aka Gameday) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Sketch Palsy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of a Wanted Man T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Sweet Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Take 5 T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unicorn Exterminator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unremembered T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 942 total, 8/month
Shared By: KateC on Feb 29, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Located 10' left of "Go Left..." and 10' right of "Fat Antelopes," this route starts with low-angle grungy crack climbing to a wide ledge. From here, jam two cracks in a V and then work up between them or the left crack to the flake above.

Protection

Cams, a few bigger ones. Bolted anchors at top.

Photos

Katie Foster
Laramie, Wy
 
Katie Foster   Laramie, Wy
 
The bottom is very easy, a fun confidence builder, and the crux is fun on TR but may be a little scary on lead because of the shelf to deck on. However, I was able to shove a #2 BD into the left crack, just above the hand jam. The taller you are, the easier this will be. If you're shorter than ~5'8" or so, you may be pulling it unprotected. Fun move though! Jul 14, 2015
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
  5.8
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
  5.8
Haha...not so sure about that, Kate. Aug 28, 2009
KateC
 
KateC  
 
Hmm, revisited the area this weekend and now I'm rereading my submissions. Pretty sure what I described above was for Dream of Fat Antelopes, the next climb to the left. I'll replace my description with Matt's as he is, as usual, much better than me. Aug 10, 2009
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
  5.8
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
  5.8
OK, after having done what is a worthwhile warm up for this area, here's the lowdown: this route is located about 10' left of Go Left and is the first route after this one. The first 30' probably go at 5.5 on a low angled slab split by a crack (as does Go Left). The business starts at the end of this slab where a wide, steep, and flaring crack diverges into two distinct hand size cracks. To surmount this, throw a jam in on the left hand crack (a hand-size piece will protect his move, although the flaring nature of the crack makes it a little spooky) and work your feet up until you can throw another jam into the right hand crack. From here on out, the route is relatively straight forward - work both cracks until you reach the end of them, breaking out right when you reach the flake at the top. Bolted anchors at the top will get you to the bottom; although, I am not sure why these are here given that there is an easy walk off just to the south.

Having done this route now twice over the past several years, I am not sure what Kate is referring to. The vast majority of the route is typical Vedauwoo 7 (disregarding the first section) with only the crux checking in at somewhere around 8. I didn't feel that this route was any more difficult than the last time I did this - the jams are good and getting into the hand cracks just seem like typical 'woo trickery no harder than Le Petite Arbre or the start of Juxtaposition. Singles in the hand size pieces will get you up this easily. Aug 4, 2008
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
  5.8
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
  5.8
This route is located probably about 20' left of Go Left, Old Man, Go Left. Similar to that route, the first section is garbage-y with all of the solid climbing located in the last 20' of the route. Aug 1, 2008