Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 8,381 total · 61/month
Shared By: Matt Weisman on Jul 30, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


196 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A great route, and one that actually holds the .12a rating.

Endurance is the name of the game; rest properly and you will send. The route stays fairly consistent the whole way; hold on.

Location

to the right of lunchabes

Protection

10-12 draws

Photos

Rob Duncan
Salt Lake City
Rob Duncan   Salt Lake City
long! really good Aug 22, 2009
Rob Man
SLC UT
Rob Man   SLC UT
this is one of the best on the wall for sure and good at the grade! Jul 28, 2010
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
I think that this one "holds the 12a grade" because it used to be 12b! But seriously, it is quite a bit harder than Lunchables, Groundwork, Afterglow, etc. Jul 26, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.12a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.12a
Thought this route was technically easier than Zoaster, but perhaps a little more thuggy. Jun 3, 2012
BrianWS
  5.11+
BrianWS  
  5.11+
Rests galore! Super fun moves on the giant cobbles about halfway up. On par with other Maple 12a's, but pretty soft by most standards. Aug 2, 2012
Mark Rolofson
  5.12b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12b
It has now been over 6 years since last visited Maple Canyon & redpointed this route in Oct. 2008. I didn't disagree with its original .12b rating and
that year I redpointed 78 routes between .12a & .13a. The hardest moves on 49 were only .11c but my god what a pump! True endurance climbing. Unlike most .12bs with multiple .12a cruxes or a real .12b crux, this climb is a jug
haul that overhangs 25 ft. in 80 ft. There are 10 protection bolts and the only great rest is on a stance below a final bulge at last bolt. Not a no hands rest but the feet are on a shelf. Definently harder that Lunchables or Zoaster Toaster. Jan 24, 2015
James Cranston
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
James Cranston   Boulder, CO
  5.12a
so good... Oct 25, 2015
lech
  5.12b
lech  
  5.12b
Great route and solid at the grade in my opinion. This route is more about open hand holds. They are jugs but open hand jugs. Feb 22, 2016
James Cranston
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
James Cranston   Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Finally sent last month. Clutch right knee before the big slopey cobble that seems to be the RP crux for most people. No move is hard, just sport climbing technique to keep the pump clock from counting down. One of my favorite 5.12a's ever. Jul 5, 2016