Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Dan Snyder
Page Views: 3,841 total · 21/month
Shared By: Chris Archer on Aug 14, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

104 Opinions

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Rated 12d in the guide, this route has cleaned up nicely and has gotten significantly easier. Follow the line of bolts between Just Put It In on the left and Zoaster Toaster on the right. (FI is 4 routes right of Lunchables.) Three difficult sections separated by excellent rests, with the crux at the end. Note that a variation called Hooked on Estrogen (12c/d?)heads up and left after the 4th bolt of Functional Idiot.


13 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


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salt lake city, UT
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
no single move harder than 5.11 just better have eaten your wheeties for breakfast. Definitely rated on endurance more so than hardest move. Jun 1, 2010
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
Really hard to rate this route, the moves maybe grace the 12- range at the very top, but your sooo pumped when you get there, they feel much harder than that. Very sustained climbing with a couple of shakes, to a steep thiner finish. 12b/c when you add the pump factor? Jul 6, 2010
Scott W
Flagstaff, AZ
Scott W   Flagstaff, AZ
I thought this route was easier than any 12b in the canyon. The Big Calm feels quite a bit harder. No hands rest before crux, no pump to speak of. Jun 22, 2011
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
I found this route to be pretty straight foward the entire way up except for the last two bolts before the chains, where a tough to read crux appears (hint- don't go left where you want to). Once you suss it out, though, it's pretty straightforward, and if you can manage the pump, you should be okay.

I'd say very doable for 5.12b, and very approachable too- not to mention an all around great climb. If you fire off 49 and Zoaster, this is a great next route! May 29, 2017