Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 4,321 total · 30/month
Shared By: Paul Hunnicutt on Jul 6, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

170 Opinions

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Start just left of a deep chimney on a dark face. Climb easy 5th class past a couple bolts to a long face that gets steeper about 2/3 the way up. Climb past the steep section (crux) and finish at two bolts. Climbers with good footwork won't get that warmed up on this route...if you are climbing the 12's around the corner that is. However, an excellent and long route on its own.


On the right side of the Minimum, uphill from Afterglow


Many bolts (12-14 maybe?) to anchors with biners on them, but I'd bring two draws as backup - many biners at Maple are quite worn.


Farmington, utah
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
This is a must do for the beginner climber. really long with a nice ride off the top. a very unique climb that hugs the arette. Nov 9, 2007
Texaswall Seale
The Woodlands, TX
Texaswall Seale   The Woodlands, TX
Anchor now sports three chains, but do note that it is not particularly easy to clean this route on rappel. 12 bolts. May 30, 2008
Tryhard Scoville
Sandy, UT
Tryhard Scoville   Sandy, UT
This is a very fun route that will test your endurance at the end. Most clips will be made with left hand, so expect your right arm to get very pumped. Keep in mind that cobbles can pull at any time on any of the routes in the area. I pulled a cobble before clipping the first bolt. I made a pretty good landing after falling roughly 10 feet to the down slope. Unfortunately, another group's crag dog got spooked and nipped my leg, adding insult to injury. Jul 6, 2009
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
pumpiest 5.9 ever Sep 2, 2009
Greg Taylor  
Maybe I stared in the wrong place or more likely there is a new(er) route between the steep face and Minienticer because the bottom 20-30 feet was really sandy with enough loose rock to make it exciting. I started on the face left of the arete in the picture, the first bolt was just out of reach from the ground and went up the face through the dark streak seen in the upper left of the beta photo to chain anchors. Also this took 16 draws, plus two for the chains. Some long draws for the lower portion would be good to avoid a lot of rope drag. Jun 14, 2010
Jason Stevens
Ephraim, UT
Jason Stevens   Ephraim, UT
Crazy cool right-hand pumper! Jul 31, 2010
my favorite 5.9 climb in the canyon...didnt think it was too pumpy due to the good rest spots, really cool exposure May 29, 2011
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
FYI- don't use the left hand of the three anchor bolts, its pulling out of the rock. Its not wiggling, so it may be good, but a good chunk of the bolt is visible. Better to use the middle and right hand bolts for TR'ing. Sep 5, 2011
  5.9 PG13
  5.9 PG13
I want to say 14 bolts plus anchor. Jun 10, 2013
Best 9 I have been on in a very long time, maybe ever. Jul 22, 2013
James Cranston
Boulder, CO
James Cranston   Boulder, CO
Great line, hard for the grade. Don't forget to look at the view. Bring a chalk bag (woops). The belay stance is kind of junk, use a GriGri. Sep 10, 2015
James Hicks
Grand Junction, CO
James Hicks   Grand Junction, CO
The comment about the belay stance seems odd since everyone in our party commented how nice it was. Fun route, nothing too hard just felt like sustained 5.9 climbing. Jul 5, 2016