Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 7,390 total · 46/month
Shared By: Aimee Rose on Mar 23, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


170 Opinions

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Description

Endurance jug haul, with a steep topout. Do not go left and skip the last bolt- it may be easier, but it's also scarier and going straight up is much more asthetic.

Location

Pretty much in the middle of the crag.

Protection

Lots o bolts to chains

Photos

KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.11d
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.11d
According to darren k, this will go 11d. when you stand at the bottom of this route and all the routes on this wall they all look really long and steep - which it is. come with your battle gear for this route. long, overhanging with one good rest. stellar climbing. as the legend goes a dog named zoaster was hit by rock fall when the route was being set. they thought it was dead, then later the dog just revived to the amazement of all. Nov 9, 2007
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.12a
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.12a
Great jug hauling that only gets better, and harder, as you reach the top. I found a few decent rests on this route, but it was sustained and a tad sequential. I think .12a is consistent with the other grades at maple, although there's no true ".12a" move on it. Pulling over the lip at the top is a whole lot of fun. Jun 2, 2009
Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Mark Rolofson   Boulder, CO
  5.12a
It has been a very long time (July 2001) since I first visited Maple Canyon & redpointed Zoaster Toaster. Unlike Grip Tease (.12a) in the Box Canyon, that has powerful sequences of moves, this climb never has a move harder than .11b. Still it felt much harder for me to redpoint. I am pretty sure there are 11 protection bolts. I have to wonder if the amazing suitcase handle hold, that is used to clip the last bolt, still exists. The suitcase handle hold is (or was) made up of 3-5 tiny cobbles mysteriously held together by who knows what. Dec 28, 2018