Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Chris Miller, July 2002
Page Views: 2,846 total · 20/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on May 21, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


55 Opinions

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Description

This climbs directly up to and over the small roof just right of Coyotes in the Henhouse.

Climb past 3 bolts to the roof. Continue up to the crux - a blind clip of the 4th bolt. After the bolt is clipped (easier directly below) a slight downclimb and move right allows you to use an undercut to reach for the big hold on the lip.

Make a long reach, or jump for the good flake up and right. With the flake at hand and your feet above the overhang, clip the 5th bolt and fire up on small crimps. The small holds soon give way to better holds.

A good route that's marred by a difficult 4th clip.

Location

Located on the right side of the wall.

Protection

7 bolts, chain anchors
C Miller
CA
  5.11b
C Miller   CA  
  5.11b
Orignally done without the 5th bolt, which was added later to prevent hitting the slab below.

Sort of an odd route in that it's mostly moderate with a thin, bouldery crux over the roof. Some beta - at the 4th bolt shorter climbers can go slightly right under the roof to work underclings/edges which makes clipping the bolt easier. The bolt may a bit high, but it protects the crux and keeps you off the slab. Jun 12, 2007
Thoughtful moves lead up to the 4th bolt. I clipped from the crimps at the lip of the roof, while standing on the slab(nothing). If my foot slipped I probably would have hit the ground with an arm full of slack. Make sure you have your game face on when you do this route.

I thought the posted grade was accurate, but I am weak & old.

Wes Sep 5, 2010
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
 
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
 
Bold lead. Kudos for those who lead this! The grade felt true to the area (.11d), but I didn't lead it so I wouldn't rate it per se. Probably easier if you're tall (I'm 5'8") Jun 10, 2013
Nick Tunnicliffe
Costa Mesa
  5.11+
Nick Tunnicliffe   Costa Mesa
  5.11+
Crux is hanging the 4th draw. Other than that I felt it was soft. Basically can't fall hanging the 4th draw or it will not be good. Fun moves after the roof on smaller crimps and a close 5th bolt to help prevent hitting the slab below. Aug 16, 2013
27 votes on this route? Huh. Lots of chalk up to the roof, but not a speck after that. May 4, 2014
Coon  
^^ haha completely agree with Phil. This would normally be beyond me so I gave it some goes on TR. Going right did not work for me at all. Straight up to the sidepull flake was how I got passed the roof. The biggest challenge IMO was that theres no feet under the roof. May 16, 2014
I followed this and my buddy skipped the fourth bolt until after gaining the big flake above the roof. I found a good knee bar making the 4th bolt clip no big deal as I was able to clean the draw pretty easily. Sep 29, 2014
Matt Janse
Rancho Cucamonga
  5.11d
Matt Janse   Rancho Cucamonga
  5.11d
I was climbing this route on 10/28/18 and I did not find that hanging the 4th or 5th draw was the biggest challenge, although I am 6ft3in so no surprise there as I just reached up for the flake/sidepull. However when I was making the moves to fully pull out of the bulge/roof after the 5th draw I was using one of the more "juggy" crimps and I broke it sadly : /. There are still other crimps around to utilize however I think this makes it closer to 11d now as it adds some difficulty to that section IMO. Oct 28, 2018