Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Chris Miller & Chuck Scott, May 2001
Page Views: 1,831 total · 12/month
Shared By: C Miller on May 20, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This seldom done but quality line climbs difficult thin face past three bolts (crux) into the obvious finger/hand crack just left of Coyotes in the Henhouse. Three-quarters of the way up the pitch, the crack is a bit broken and another bolt will be found before the climb steepens at the top for the juggy finish.

The name comes from a local coffee house in Big Bear City - if not properly warmed up this climb may indeed be just as advertised.

Location

Protection

4 bolts, gear to 2.5", bolted anchor (shared with Coyotes In The Henhouse)

Photos

Simon H
Oakland, CA
  5.11b
Simon H   Oakland, CA
  5.11b
Very fun and worthy route, thin and hard down low, reachy, crimpy 5.11. We brought a bouldering pad, which was more comfortable to fall on while working the crux than the rope. The anchors are off to the side, which makes this route a pain to clean. Oct 23, 2011
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
 
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
 
Do it. The crux move is super well protected and the rest is in the 5.10 range. The crack protects great with mostly small cams but some medium as well. Jun 17, 2012
I am a bit torn on grading this. I am not sure if my height (5'8") or not knowing how this was suppose to be started played a roll in the difficulty of this start. I tried climbing directly to the bolt and that was super hard. I made the clip on a small shitty gaston then down climbed to rethink this. Then I ended up going up right of the bolt on crimps; start match, one long left hand move up and then right to a good size hold which made it easy to gain the big flake.

I felt that this one and a half moves were harder than any one move of the 11d next Coyotes in the Hen House. I do feel the 11d was harder because of a series of difficult moves though.

The upper portion of Brewed Awakening was okay. Protects well, has a little hollow and loose stuff around the crack. Used a #2, 1, .4 and .3. Couple of good spots for nuts if you want to use them. Sorry for the mega spray down, but I just had a bitch on the start for 11b. Once I got it after 5 minutes of working it, it was no thing. Sep 29, 2014
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
 
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
 
Was also stumped on the start (11b?!) but then figured it out by using a decent right crimp as the starting hold to approach the first bolt. Very thin set of opening moves, regardless. After gaining the flake, it eases way off and you'll get a nice stance to get a couple of pieces in, when you reach the crack. I sewed it up, using everything from a blue Alien to a gold Camalot. Protects very well, and definitely worth doing if you brought your rack. As mentioned, cleaning is a pain. Oct 12, 2014
This climb was definitely one that made me glad to be tall. At 6'2", I was able to move through the opening sequence with just a few long, delicate moves through the crimps. My follower (5'8") had a MUCH harder time.

If you are considering leading this, you should be very confident with 5.10 trad. The trad portion is likely 5.10a (or easier), and there are many solid placements, but there is also a bit of questionable rock. I climbed this thing very carefully and still knocked some decent sized pebbles at my belayer.

The climbing was fun and definitely worth it if you brought your rack, just make sure your belayer is wearing a helmet and paying attention. Maybe use an assisted braking device too... Jun 13, 2016