PRINT: Rock Climb Public Hanging, San Bernardino Mountains

Public Hanging

5.11c/d, Sport, Alpine, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 2.9 from 92 votes
FA: Chris Miller, July 2002
California > San Bernardino… > Big Bear Lake Area > Big Bear North > Big Bear City Area > Holcomb Valley… > Central Pinnacles > Claim Jumper Wall

Access Issue: Road Closure in Effect Details

SR 38
[IN THE SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA AREA]
Is closed from 0.2 mi east of Angelus Oaks /at Mill Creek Rd/ to 4.6 mi east of Angelus Oaks /at Hill Ranch Rd/ (San Bernardino Co) - Due to mudslide - Motorists are advised to use an alternate route

Description

This climbs directly up to and over the small roof just right of Coyotes in the Henhouse.

Climb past 3 bolts to the roof. Continue up over the roof on thin edges and don't pump out going to the anchors.

Location

Located on the right side of the wall.

Protection

7 bolts, chain anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Public Hanging (5.11c), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

Cliff T scoping out the crux

Wes finds a rest before taking on the crux of 'Public Hanging'...

Looking up at Public hanging...

Cool climb

DTAS about to get hung.

Hobbs scouting out the roof on Public Hanging.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C Miller
CA

5.11b

Orignally done without the 5th bolt, which was added later to prevent hitting the slab below. Jun 12, 2007

Wes Goulding

Thoughtful moves lead up to the 4th bolt. I clipped from the crimps at the lip of the roof, while standing on the slab(nothing). If my foot slipped I probably would have hit the ground with an arm full of slack. Make sure you have your game face on when you do this route.

I thought the posted grade was accurate, but I am weak & old.

Wes Sep 5, 2010

Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA

Bold lead. Kudos for those who lead this! The grade felt true to the area (.11d), but I didn't lead it so I wouldn't rate it per se. Probably easier if you're tall (I'm 5'8") Jun 10, 2013

Phil Esra

27 votes on this route? Huh. Lots of chalk up to the roof, but not a speck after that. May 4, 2014

Coon	[Hide Comment] ^^ haha completely agree with Phil. This would normally be beyond me so I gave it some goes on TR. Going right did not work for me at all. Straight up to the sidepull flake was how I got passed the roof. The biggest challenge IMO was that theres no feet under the roof. May 16, 2014

Brian Chastain

I followed this and my buddy skipped the fourth bolt until after gaining the big flake above the roof. I found a good knee bar making the 4th bolt clip no big deal as I was able to clean the draw pretty easily. Sep 29, 2014

Matthew Janse
Rancho Cucamonga

5.11d

I was climbing this route on 10/28/18 and I did not find that hanging the 4th or 5th draw was the biggest challenge, although I am 6ft3in so no surprise there as I just reached up for the flake/sidepull. However when I was making the moves to fully pull out of the bulge/roof after the 5th draw I was using one of the more "juggy" crimps and I broke it sadly : /. There are still other crimps around to utilize however I think this makes it closer to 11d now as it adds some difficulty to that section IMO. Oct 28, 2018

Ryan Wood
Bend, OR

Throw a .3 Camelot in the crack under the roof then fire the mantle and clip the 5th bolt skipping the 4th. This route is 5.11a/b. May 17, 2020

Jon Hartmann
Ojai, CA

Beta Alert! Do not read if you don’t want it! Saw a guy yesterday take some big falls on this one trying to jump for the flake before clipping the bolt at the lip. He found out later that he could clip the bolt by using a 1/2” finger pod and a high step directly beneath the bolt to clip and then after he moved right to the hold at the lip to make the move to the flake. He was 5’8” and I’m pretty sure someone shorter could do the same thing. Doing it that way takes all the spice and danger out of the climb. Enjoy!! Jun 12, 2022