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Routes in Claim Jumper Wall

Better Luck Next Time S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blue Sky Mine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bobbing for Ear Snax T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brewed Awakening T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bum Steer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bye Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chaps My Hide S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Claim Jumper S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Colonial Ear Wax T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coyotes in the Henhouse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dos Dose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Goblin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hangin' Judge, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Lady Luck S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lucky Cuss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mad Season S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Necktie Party S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
One Armed Bandit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Papper, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Public Hanging S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Sam Owings, Tony Egnozzi & Kevin Duck, 1995
Page Views: 6,653 total, 47/month
Shared By: C Miller on May 20, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The thin and somewhat reachy start on small edges is the crux, and after the second bolt enjoyable moves on large but somewhat questionable holds lead to the finishing bulge, which is rife with excellent incuts making for a spectacular and enjoyable finish.

A classic of the area and a highly recommeded route for the grade.

Location

Right side of the face between Brewed Awakening and Public Hanging.

Protection

8 bolts, sport anchors
Rich Welker
Riverside, CA
  5.10d
Rich Welker   Riverside, CA
  5.10d
Been warned the anchor rap rings are in very poor condition. Still okay to rap. I'll try to replace them in spring. Hopefully someone can beat me to it. Dec 2, 2017
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10c
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10c
The anchors are snap links and they are indeed worn. Without a micrometer handy I'm stating closer to 63.22% intact although wear is not uniform.

As with all anchors of Holcomb, the recommendation of using draws for your team and any top roping is encouraged. The last gamer should rappel vs. lower to reduce wear. It's evident that we don't have an active anchor replacement program in place so best to preserve where we can. Anyone reading this in advance... bring spare hardware and tools of the trade as there are several anchors on this wall that could use some love.

YMMV but chances slicing of your rope or death utilizing the existing anchor (as of October 17th, 2017) is unlikely. Oct 18, 2017
David Vogel
Lake Forest, CA
David Vogel   Lake Forest, CA
  • (9/7/17) copy from Matthew Navarro
The steel carabiners on top of "coyotes in the Henhouse" are NO GOOD. They are completely eroded from excessive top rope use.

The carabiners are sharp and extremely dangerous to use, EVEN FOR RAPPING!! Please be cautious. I will be back up there in less than a week to replace unless someone else beats me to it. -Mateo (Copy paste from Matthew Navarro) Thanks for the heads up Sep 7, 2017
I can't think of a single 10d sport climb anywhere that I like more than this one. The bolts are all very well placed, the climbing is mostly easy and fun with a few more challenging sequences, and it is long enough to feel full value.

Also, this thing goes on gear. The placements are pretty good, though I didn't protect for about 20ft of the flake section in the middle of the climb as a fall on a cam there would likely have pulled off a hold. Jun 13, 2016
Coon  
Awesome diverse set of moves that get you up this one. Im surprised the paper thin flakes havent pulled off, they feel like theyre going to break in your hands. May 16, 2014
Plenty of 10d and 11a routes all over HVP that don't have cruxes anywhere near as hard as the start of this one! May 4, 2014
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10c
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10c
Bouldery start may be the crux. This route climbs very nice and has a series of easy boulder problems, with nicely placed blots and rests. Excellent route. Dec 5, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.11a
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.11a
Did this yesterday again and it's been a long time but I still think this is one of HVP's best. The wonderful athletic moves through the mid-section are extremly satisfying. Boulder problem start. Jul 10, 2011
Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Lluis Penalver-Aguila   Cambridge, Massachusetts
Started this one with the low undercling to the crimps above, strenuous to the first bolt, then holds increase in size. Move left before reaching the roof on Public Hanging and continue up on sharp flakes. Rest where you can, the finish is a pull over a small roof. Sep 7, 2009
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.11a
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.11a
Holcomb Valley's best? Certainly a candidate. Jun 22, 2009
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.11a
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.11a
Great route. Technical up to and passing the 1st bolt, and then a great sequence to round the overlap. Fun climbing on big hollow flakes finishes it off. May 21, 2007